Swimming with whales and running with dogs in Tonga!

Nuku’alofa, Tonga. 5th of September 2025.

It was September when we found ourselves floating in the warm, glassy waters of Tonga, heartbeats racing under our snorkel masks. The sun streamed down through shades of turquoise, and then—out of the blue—appeared a shape so vast it seemed unreal. A humpback whale. Our very first encounter, and we were spellbound!

This is my experience in the beautiful kingdom of Tonga…. where we ran too! And when running we encountered other animals which turned out to be more menacing than the Humpback Whales!

Running in Nuku’alofa felt like stepping into another world. The coastal path led past royal palaces, tombs, and friendly locals, while the ocean wind pushed against us. It was raw and real. Just a day earlier we swam with humpback whales, so Tonga gave us both wild adventure and unforgettable miles on foot.

Read here all about it and find out where to run in Tonga, and if it was worth the million flight we took! Because Tonga is more than humpback whales, sun-drenched beaches and friendly waves. It’s a runner’s dream waiting off the beaten track! 🏝️✨

TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”

• I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
• I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
• Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
• Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
• I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.
• It’s a long haul flight! Take me to TO KNOW MORE.

🏅 Why Tonga Should Be on Every Runner’s Bucket List

Tonga blends pure natural beauty with rich tradition. 🐚 Imagine beachside jogs with humpback whales breaching nearby during migration season, jungle loops echoing with native birdsong, and barefoot sprints on soft coral sand.

No tourist crowds. Just peaceful routes and authentic smiles. Tonga is the perfect setting for unforgettable training runs and epic storytelling. 📸✨

Because, yes: Tonga is one of the rare places on Earth where you can legally and respectfully swim with humpbacks. Every year, from July through October, these gentle giants migrate from the icy feeding grounds of Antarctica to Tonga’s calm, shallow lagoons to mate, give birth, and raise their calves. September is peak season. The whales are abundant, the calves are playful, and the energy in the water feels electric.

The most special experience. Swimming with Whales

There’s something about Tonga that draws you in. Not only the whales, but also the rhythm of island life. Which we experienced when running. The pace is slow, unhurried. In between swims, we lounged on empty beaches, shared kava with locals, and tasted papayas so sweet they put supermarket fruit to shame. Every evening, the sky put on a show, with sunsets blazing in pink, orange, and gold.

It’s difficult to explain how special this experience is. Tonga regulates whale swims carefully: only small groups are allowed in the water, and trained guides ensure respectful distances. It felt good to know that what we were doing wasn’t just about us—it was part of a culture of stewardship, keeping these waters safe for whales and for future travelers.

To witness humpbacks in Tonga is to glimpse something timeless. These ancient travelers have been visiting the islands for millennia, and to share even a brief moment with them is a gift. For us, it was a gift worth receiving.

Our trip to swim with whales was filled with moments that are impossible to forget: a mother whale hovering in the blue while her calf spun and twirled above her like a child showing off; the deep, haunting songs of males vibrating through our chests; the way time seemed to slow as we watched, suspended in awe. It wasn’t about chasing thrills. It was about connection, humility, and wonder.

🌍 The Trip 📷

Founded centuries ago under the Tuʻi Tonga Empire, it thrived as a seafaring civilization.

Fun fact: Tongan uses special letters like the ‘ō’ and ‘ā’ for beautiful words like “Fakaʻapaʻapa” (respect). From kava ceremonies to whale rituals, Tonga’s cultural depth enriches every run.

Don’t miss:

• Hufangalupe (Pigeon’s Gate) – a dramatic sea arch wrapped in Maui legends 🌊
• Lapaha’s royal tombs – ancient mausoleums echoing with hushed history
• Humpback whale tours (July–Oct) – epic ocean-view running stories ahead

📜 A Brief Story of Tonga 🏝️👑

Tonga, often called “The Friendly Islands”, is one of the most culturally rich and historically resilient nations in the Pacific.

It’s the only Pacific island nation never colonized, maintaining its own monarchy since ancient times. The Kingdom of Tonga dates back over 1,000 years, with the powerful Tuʻi Tonga Empire once stretching its influence across Samoa, Fiji, and beyond. That’s serious royal mileage! 👑⚓

European explorers like Captain Cook named it the “Friendly Islands” after experiencing the famously warm Tongan hospitality during a visit in 1773. But, fun fact—legend says the locals were actually plotting to kill him at the time and just didn’t follow through. 😅 So, the name stuck, and luckily, so did the friendliness.

Tonga is also a land of myths and oral tradition. From the creation stories of Maui pulling up the islands with a fishhook to ancient star navigators guiding vaka (canoes) across vast oceans, the heritage here runs deep.

On your visit, you’ll see monumental stone trilithons like Haʻamonga ʻa Maui, ancient royal tombs in Lapaha, and sacred coastal blowholes said to breathe with the spirit of the islands. 🌺🌊

In short, Tonga is more than just a stopover—it’s a living time capsule, where every trail, shoreline, and smile has a story to tell. And yes, you can run through all of it! 🏃‍♂️💨

Swimming with Whales: our experience!

At 6:45am a taxi arrived to take us on the adventure. Also joining was David, a Kiwi dad of a 9-month-old baby. His wife had gone the day before; they took turns 👍. How clever was that?

At the harbour, it was freezing. Locals were fishing, big boats swaying. 🐟

We went swimming with whales with “Tahi Tonga.” The day before they called us, unsure because of the wind, but this morning the weather cleared. We left an hour earlier, at 7am. Best call ever. The operation was smooth, and we paid by card. Keisy, a South African, runs the business with great energy. They’ve only been going a year, but it’s already top-notch.

They geared us up with wetsuits, fins, and amazing jackets. Lucky, because it was cold and we hadn’t dressed properly. The boat was small but professional.

The crew: Simon, a Kiwi driver with 11 years in Tonga; Tomas, the local owner; Hali, our Tongan guide; and Reese, a Kiwi photographer.

Passengers included two Aussie girls, David, Anxo from Galicia on sabbatical, and Jill, a 75-year-old Sydney woman who amazed us all.

The Encounters

It took 30 minutes to reach the spot. I was half asleep, popped two biodraminas, and they worked 👍. Then it happened. We saw one. Two groups took turns. We were second. We jumped. Even Jill, floating with a ring and Tomas’ help. The waves were massive, and I swallowed loads of water.

First we only glimpsed them, then on the third jump… magic. A whale was right there, so close, for five full minutes. Every detail, every movement. Incredible. 🐋

Lunch on a Deserted Island

We stopped for lunch on a deserted island. White sand, no tourists, no other boats, just us. We ran 500 meters along the shore, so we could proudly say: “We ran on a deserted island!” Burgers, coconuts, and I even ate the coconut meat. Delicious.

The biodramina hit me again, and I slept on the boat, even dreaming, but never sick.

A male humpback whale sings for us!

Later, we jumped in twice more. This time, we heard them singing. From the boat it was loud, but underwater it vibrated through the chest.

Goosebumps.

We filmed amazing videos, but nothing can capture what we felt. Eight hours later we returned, ecstatic.

Back to reality!

Back at the hotel, we discovered a washing machine and dryer in the bathroom. With soap from our Chinese landlord, we washed our clothes while editing whale videos 😁. Nothing beats slipping into a clean shirt after a day like that.

Leaving Tonga

Saturday morning, heading to the airport, we took in the last sights.

Cemeteries with signs like political ads, covered in flowers. Dogs half asleep at 8am.

Abandoned petrol stations turned into fruit stalls. Tropical vegetation everywhere, with Orotava trees spreading like green umbrellas.

The Austrian lady riding with us teased our young Chinese driver, asking if he was old enough to drive 🤣. He proudly showed his license. He said he moved here with his mum but had no idea why she chose Tonga of all places 😝. Apparently, many Chinese tourists come here.

Whale Facts

Humpback whales migrate thousands of kilometers every year, traveling from Antarctica to Tonga’s warm waters. They come here between July and October to breed and give birth. Tonga is one of the few places in the world where swimming with them is allowed.

Each whale’s tail, called a fluke, is unique, like a human fingerprint. Scientists use photos of these tails to track individuals across oceans. When we watched ours up close, I couldn’t stop staring at those patterns.

🏃‍♀️ The Run 🏃‍♂️

Starting the Run

We started our run along a concrete coastal path lined with grass. The avenue looked tidy and green. The wind hit us hard. It was so windy that morning we almost didn’t depart. 🌬️

Massive trees shaded the path, with benches to rest on the grass. Tires repurposed as pots decorated with flowers and palms.

Then came the Royal Palace. The Victorian-style wooden residence, built in 1867, stood proudly by the waterfront. Chickens roamed the royal fence decorated with colorful coats of arms.

Landmarks of Tonga

The Royal Palace of Tonga has been the official residence of the monarchy for over 150 years. Built entirely of wood, it is a striking example of Victorian architecture in the Pacific. Although not open to the public, it remains a powerful symbol of Tonga’s identity as the only Pacific monarchy.

The Royal Tombs, known as Malaʻekula or “Red Ground,” hold the remains of kings and queens since the 19th century.

They are sacred ground, deeply respected by Tongans, linking the past to the present.

Behind them rises the Centennial Church, one of the largest in Nukuʻalofa, built in 1980 to mark 100 years of the Free Church of Tonga’s independence.

Through the Streets

Old twisted trees around the tombs looked like something from Sleepy Hollow.

Male students in uniforms and traditional skirts greeted us with “Hello.” Girls wore yellow ribbons. By the way: most of the students were bigger in size than me!

We turned onto a residential road. Vans brushed past with no sidewalks in sight. Everyone drives here.

Then came the dogs. First, two barked and startled me.

Then eight attacked at once from an open garden. Eight! Luckily, Roger fended them off with the Insta360 pole. Terrifying. 🐕

Back to the Harbour

We turned left along the lagoon, passing wood stalls piled neatly on the sidewalk.

Rain hit us suddenly. We pulled on raincoats, but it stopped in five minutes. I left mine on because of the chill.

The lagoon itself was disappointing, murky and smelly.

Running back toward the harbour, we passed Chinese shops, odd houses with flags from Australia, New Zealand, and Samoa. One tiny shack looked like a poor Oklahoma trailer park, complete with a yellow corvette wrecked in the yard.

Closer to the center, I confused the Samoan flag outside a pasta place with the Tongan one 😅🤣 until I spotted the real flag waving proudly nearby.

More students filled the park, some huge for their age, smiling warmly.

We ran under a ceremonial gateway, an ornamental arch honoring the King, welcoming visitors and dignitaries with elegance.

We ended oiur run at the War Memorial, which pays solemn tribute to the brave Tongans who served in global conflicts.

Set in peaceful gardens with plaques and inscriptions, this modest yet poignant monument stands as a reflection on service and sacrifice.

Where to eat in Tonga: “Friend’s cafe” 🍽️

History in a Cafe

David was right. Friends’ Cafe really was the best. The building, called Isabella after a Scotsman’s granddaughter, holds history in every corner. Each table shares the story of Tonga, the building, and the cafe itself.

On the walls hung photos of Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth, and Tonga’s mighty Queen Sālote. The cafe felt like a time capsule. Queen Elizabeth II visited Tonga in 1953, the only Pacific nation she included. Queen Sālote had already charmed the world by riding uncovered in the London rain at Elizabeth’s coronation. Tonga remains the only Pacific kingdom never colonized, and this visit sealed the bond.

The Queens

Queen Sālote Tupou III became monarch at 18 and ruled for nearly 48 years. She was loved for her humility and wisdom and respected abroad for defending Tonga’s independence. Her reign strengthened Tongan culture while opening the kingdom to the modern world.

Queen Elizabeth’s visit was unforgettable for Tongans. Public ceremonies, traditional dances, and feasts filled Nukuʻalofa. The meeting of the two monarchs became a symbol of pride and friendship between Britain and Tonga.

Food and Atmosphere

An elderly couple sat near us. She was white, he was a 75-year-old local who remembered the Queen’s visit. “This is a beautiful kingdom,” she said proudly. I gazed at the many portraits of Queen Sālote, who reigned nearly 48 years, a leader loved for her humility and wisdom.

As we ate, a chicken strutted under the tables. 🐓 The food was spot on: milkshakes, sea chowder, fish and chips, then hot chocolate and a brownie. Perfect.

Wind rattled the flag on the church nearby as the cafe played Keane, Roxette, and Whitney Houston. At 7pm it was already cold and dark. We grabbed two bottles of water from a Chinese shop, locals arriving by car. Success!

🍜 What to Eat before and after running in Tonga

Carboloading (Before the Run)

• ʻOta ʻika: Raw fish with coconut, lime & chili—a zesty energy pick-me-up! 🌶️
• Ufi (taro) dumplings: Sticky starch parcels wrapped in banana leaves—super-fueling goodness!
• Banana pancakes: Sweet tropical fuel—way better than hotel toast! 🏨

Protein Recovery (After the Run)

• Lu sipi: Tender lamb with taro leaves—a hearty post-run reward 😋
• Grilled mahi-mahi: Omega-rich, fresh-caught muscle-nourishment
• Coconut & papaya smoothie: Hydrating, sweet, and soothing your muscles after a long run 🌴

🏃 Running in Tonga, Oceania.

👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.

✅ Scenic routes – The coastal avenue in Nuku’alofa is tidy, green, and shaded by massive trees, with benches and flower pots made from painted tires. Running here feels unique and local.

✅ Landmarks along the way – You pass the Royal Palace, Royal Tombs, and the Centennial Church, which gives the run a cultural and historical backdrop you won’t find anywhere else.

⚠️ Stray dogs – They can be aggressive. We had a scary moment when eight dogs attacked at once, and it was only thanks to quick thinking we avoided trouble.

⚠️ Traffic and sidewalks – In many areas there are no sidewalks, and vans pass extremely close. Safety awareness is essential when running through residential roads. 🚧

📘 “Toki, a Tongan Trilogy”, by Louise Lose Finau.

This vibrant novel plunges you into kava ceremonies, royal protocol, and ocean-at-play. So when your feet hit Tongan soil (and trails), you’ll run with insight and respect. Cultural layers deepen the texture of every route, every mile. 📖💫

In my opinion, what makes Toki especially compelling is that it captures Tonga through both insider and outsider eyes.

Louise Lose Finau, a Tongan writer and scholar, artfully portrays the complexity of cultural identity, colonization, and loyalty. The book doesn’t shy away from the tension between tradition and change, making it perfect for travelers who want more than just beaches, they want context. Reading Toki before your trip will help you connect emotionally with the land, the people, and the cultural rhythms you’ll see woven into daily life, whether you’re running past village churches or resting after a long jog with a cold niu (young coconut) in hand. 🥥📖👣

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🎥 & 📚 Other books & movies about Tuvalu worth exploring:

• Tales of the Tikongs by Epeli Hauʻofa – satirical island stories infused with island wisdom 🌐
• Dirt Poor Islanders by Winnie Dunn – a moving Tongan coming-of-age tale 🎓
• When the Man Went South (2014) – Tongan-language drama steeped in village life 🌿
• Friendly Islands: A History of Tonga by Noel Rutherford – deep dive into monarchy & tradition 👑