5K run in Bishkek. September 2024.
On a quiet September morning we enjoyed a run around the vast urban spaces of monumental Bishkek, with a gigantic Kyrgyz flag, soviet murals, a ferris wheel and the snowed Ala-Too mountains in the background.
TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”
- I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
- I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
- Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
- Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
- I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.
🌍 The trip 📷: What to see in Bishkek and Kyrgyztan
When I started researching where to run in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan’s capital city, I stumbled upon the following sentence in a running forum:
“Bishkek is boring, so everywhere is a non touristy place”
And this was going to be our first impression of the city. A quiet city of big avenues, massive soviet-style buildings, everything gray and monumental.
But we were determined to explore its streets, and soon we realized that Bishkek has something that makes it very special, and that is the mountains in the background:
The Ala-Too Mountains
From Bishkek, the Ala-Too Mountains (part of the larger Tien Shan range) are visible to the south. These mountains are a stunning backdrop to the city
When we visited, late September, they were snowed and offered a stark contrast with the sobriety of the city.
In fact, we arrived very early in the morning via Istanbul and enjoyed the magnificent view from the plane. That was something else!
I saw endless esplanades of brown color, of infinite land, flat and without buildings. And suddenly some brown mountains appear, as if a giant had wrinkled the Earth. And behind, the snow-capped peaks, much higher, dominate the view. An incredible landscape that conjured all of my Silk Road fantasies.
Some prominent peaks in the Ala-Too range that are visible from Bishkek include Alamedin Peak and Pik Korona, among others.
The mountains hold a deep cultural significance for the Kyrgyz people. They are often associated with Kyrgyz legends and are named in local folklore, especially related to the nomadic way of life that has shaped the country’s history.
So most of what’s there to see in Bishkek in 1-2 days is included in the next section, the “Run” section.
Although we visited Bishkek landmaks again in the affternoon, walking around.
Because we liked them so much 😆
Philarmonic Hall
One very interesting area that we saw only later is the Philarmonic Square, with the very Soviet-looking Philarmonic Hall.
The area is that of two universities so there are many young people around.
It has very impressuve flower beds… so colourful!
In fact it was a festival of colour everwhere. We could even see a rainbow in its fountains!
September is a great month for visiting!
Outside of Bishkek
If you are staying more days, it is really worth exploring the surroundings of Bishkek and learn more about the nomadic culture of Kyrzystan.
Actually, the “International Nomadic Games” took place in here last year.
And this is what we did.
And, of course, if you have many days, explore the amazing landscapes, the mountains, the plains, the nature…
Burana Tower
From Bishkek, Burana Tower is a little over one hour by car or bus.
It’s the tower part of the ancient city of Balasagun (11th to 13th centuries) and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When we visited there were very few tourists and it was a clear day.
The view of the Ala-Too mountains was magnificent.
You can go up its narrow and steep stairs and enjoy the view from its 25m height. We did and did not regret it.
Kyrgyz Horse Games
We also experiencied a Kyrgyz national horse game called “Ulak Tartysh” (goat pulling).
As it name gives away… the ball is… a dead goat.
So it was a little bit gross for our standards (I will not include here some of the pictures I took), but very interesting to see, specially as the local players put a lot of effort and passion in their game.
We enjoyed more how the riders picked up coins from the ground:
Or the Ulak Tartysh (also known as Kok Boru), a fight between two teams of horse riders for a goat carcass.
Yurt building!
We also watched a demonstration of yurt construction and even took part in it!
I helped hang ornaments while local Kyrgyz women were explaining the meaning and use of each part of the yurt.
🏃♀️ The run🏃♂️
We designed a 5 kilometer route around some of the most famous landmarks in central Bishkek, and we set off at 11am, after having slept nothing the night before. So we took it very easy.
Luckily the route is flat and not harsh.
Temperature in late September was mild around midday, perfect for running.
It was a quiet Wednesday morning / midday and running around the city center streets would have been a delight… if it weren’t for the pollution from the many cars in the super wide avenues.
Frunze Street
Starting at Damas International Hotel, we headed west along Frunze Street. It has wide sidewalks with virtually no people: a few students and a few businessmen.
This part is interesting as you run past a few parks, with flowers blooming and statues of famous people looking very serious, and many government and official buildings, looking very soviet.
Like this very soviet mural:
We saw many buildings and monuments with the hammer and the sickle! We also experienced all kinds of pavement: asphalt, cement, small tiles, large slabs…
Panfilov Park and Oak Park
Then we ran to Panfilov Park, a scenic area full of trees and locals relaxing…. and an amusement park. Of course at that time it was almost empty, so it was super nice to walk around and take pictures in front of its ferris wheel or statues of famous cartoon characters.
But the funniest moment was when we heard “Californication” from Red Hot Chilli Peppers sound very loud in one of those soviet-looking fair stalls. It was… bizarre!
We continued running south towards Oak Park, which is close to Panfilov Park and features many oak trees and sculptures.
The Ala-Too Square
From there we headed to the ‘top sight’ of our route: the Ala-Too Square. Really worth it!
We saw the changing of the guard in front of a massive National Flag, next to the Manas Statue. My Gosh, those guys raised their legs a lot!
The Square is very big, monumental to the maximum, with a giant flag, flower beds, golden domes… and because it is so wide, it is good for running. There were some shops selling burgers and food, and some business people walking around, but in general it was empty enough to allow us to run comfortably!
In the Square there are also the National Historical Museum and the State Museum of Fine Arts.
Victory Square
Victory Square was built to honor the Kyrgyz soldiers who fought and lost their lives during World War II (known in the Soviet Union as the Great Patriotic War). While Kyrgyzstan was far from the front lines, thousands of Kyrgyz men joined the Red Army and fought in crucial battles. Many never returned home, and this square serves as a tribute to their sacrifices.
At the center of the square is an eternal flame, a symbol of eternal memory and reverence for the fallen soldiers.
The design of the arches resembling the shape of a yurt reflects the deep connection between Kyrgyz culture and its nomadic traditions, blending national identity with Soviet history.
Victory Square was inaugurated in 1985, marking the 40th anniversary of the Soviet victory in WWII. During Soviet times, this square was a central site for commemorations and patriotic ceremonies. Even today, it plays a significant role in national celebrations, especially on Victory Day (May 9), when government officials, military personnel, and citizens gather to pay tribute to the veterans of the war.
We took some pictures, also running around the flame, while very cute school kids were passing by dressed in uniforms.
🍜 Carboloading 🍝: What to eat in Kyrgyzstan if you are a runner
We could enjoy many of these dishes in the Don Aryk village, where we had lunch at the home of a local Kyrgyz family, and it was a great experience.
Salads, vegetables and Kyrgyz bread, which we were served all days; it is quite different to our Spanish bread, though!
Second dish was Dym Liama, very tasty and super rich in carbs, with boiled potatoes. Delicious!
I particularly liked tea with a strawberry jam, which the guide recommended and it is very very sweet. Well at least if you add as much jam as I did!
One curious thing is that they serve desserts when they prepare the table, so you can actually eat the sweet treats when you feel like 😁
Another typical Kyrgyz dish rich in carbohydrates is Beshbarmak, which is also delicious!
Beshbarmak is considered the national dish of Kyrgyzstan and is particularly beloved for its hearty and satisfying nature. The name “Beshbarmak” translates to “five fingers,” indicating that it is traditionally eaten with the hands.
Shashlik is a type of skewered and grilled meat, similar to kebabs, and is popular throughout Central Asia, including Kyrgyzstan.
Useful information
🏆 5K run in Bishkek, Kyrgyztan.
👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.
✅ Flat, wide streets, not busy.
✅ You can see most of Bishkek’s landmarks in a relatively short time.
Map
One book
“Jamilia” by Chingiz Aitmatov.
“Jamilia” is a beatufil love story and an acclaimed novel by Chingiz Aitmatov, a prominent Kyrgyz author. Set during World War II in a remote Kyrgyz village, the story is told from the perspective of Seit, a young boy. It revolves around the love story of Jamilia, the narrator’s sister-in-law, and Daniyar, a soldier who returns home from the war. The novel beautifully depicts the Kyrgyz landscape and culture while exploring themes of love, tradition, and freedom.
Chingiz Aitmatov is known for his evocative storytelling and ability to bring the landscapes and customs of Central Asia to life, making “Jamilia” an excellent introduction to Kyrgyz literature.
Plot Summary: Jamilia’s husband is off fighting at the front. She spends her days hauling sacks of grain from the threshing floor to the train station in their small village in the Caucasus, accompanied by Seit, her young brother-in-law, and Daniyar, a sullen newcomer to the village who has been wounded on the battlefield. Seit observes the beautiful, spirited Jamilia spurn men’s advances, and wince at the dispassionate letters she receives from her husband. Meanwhile, undeterred by Jamilia’s teasing, Daniyar sings as they return each evening from the fields. Soon Jamilia is in love, and she and Daniyar elope just as her husband returns.
