Khiva, Uzbekistan. 26th September 2024.
We ran around the walls of the old Khiva city, a stunning construction of adobe and mud that protects the Itchan Kala, a UNESCO world heritage site with marvels like the Kalta Minor Minaret.
TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”
- I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
- I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
- Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
>> For the usual “Carboloading” and “One book” sections, please refer to the Taskhkent blog post!
🌍 The trip 📷: What to see in Khiva in one or two days
Our last stop in Uzbekistan was Khiva.
Khiva is a city steeped in history and one of the most important stops on the ancient Silk Road.
We loved this ancient city, in the middle of the desert. The sun was not strong, and the temperature was not high: it was end of September, after all.
There were not too many tourists and we enjoyed visiting its old town, Itchan Kala, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains a treasure trove of well-preserved Islamic architecture.
We even went up its walls!
The walk costed us around 2 dolars, and it has no protection, so it is dangerous. But it is also really worth it. The views are spectacular!
Kalta Minor Minaret
You cannot miss the Kalta Minor Minaret, an iconic, unfinished minaret with striking turquoise tiles.
It was intended to be the tallest minaret in the Islamic world, but construction stopped at 29 meters.
Kunya-Ark Citade
Built in the 17th century, Kunya-Ark served as the residence of Khiva’s khans (rulers). The citadel contains a palace, a mosque, and a harem, giving visitors a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of Khiva’s rulers.
Juma Mosque
Unlike many mosques with large domes, Juma Mosque (Friday Mosque) is a unique structure with a flat roof supported by over 200 wooden columns.
I told our guide that my father was born in the Mezquita de Cordoba, and she remarked on the fact that both are very similar.
All pillars are different, and some of these date back to the 10th century.
Pakhlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
This mausoleum is dedicated to Pahlavan Mahmoud, a local poet, philosopher, and wrestler who became a saint. It is the spiritual heart of Khiva, with beautiful turquoise domes and intricate tilework.
Tash Khauli Palace
This palace was built in the early 19th century and is an architectural masterpiece of Islamic design. The palace has over 150 rooms, including an impressive harem, all adorned with intricate tilework and decoration.
🏃♀️ The run 🏃♂️
Our hotel was located in the middle of the old city.
During the trip, our guide explained that more than 3,000 people lived within these walls. And we could see it from the start.
It was late afternoon and children were playing in the streets, some still in school uniforms, and were waving at us and saying “Hello hello!”. People are so friendly here!
We passed houses with clothian streets playing some kind of games.
I had read that Khiva is “like an open air museum”, and it really is. We loved it from the start.
More like Bukhara than Samarcand, Khiva also has the atmosphere of a real old town, not a tourist place.
Around the Outer City Walls
Roger designed a route around the outer city walls, which was 2.5kms long.
We left the small streets of the old city through the Bakcha Darvoza gate (the Southern Gate), and started running North.
I had to stop to admire the beauty. The walls were stretching, with nobody in sight, composing an image that made me think of ancient times, lost empires, fabulous legends.
The walls are primarily made with clay and adobe (“mudbrik”), and reinforced with bricks in some sections. I could see that, looking at the walls that were illuminated with the setting sun.
In some parts, the walls are plastered with mud to protect the structure from the weather. Particularly the harsh winds and arid climate of the region.
And it was perfect for running! A wide and flat sidewalk and the walls casting shadows.
After our 2.5kms lap, we decided to lengthen our run and explore the Itchan Sala, the historical inner fortress (or old town).
Running in the Itchan Sala
It was not an easy run because the pavement was uneven and we had to be vigilant.
There were tourists, but not as many as to make the run impossible.
All in all, it was worth it because we saw amazing things. We turned a corner and we encountered the wonderful Kalta Minor Minaret: elegant and robots, with blue-green mosaics covering its vastness.
Then we turned another, and we found the Allakuli Khan Madrassah, with beautiful mosaics.
And everywhere, beautiful buildings of adobe with walls painted in white and mosaics, and the local children continued to play and say “Hello” to us in every street.
The ancient city was bustling with life – the life of local communities -, and we finished our run having reached the 5k milestone with the beauty surrounding us filling our hearts.
Map
Useful information
🏆 5-6 kms route in Khiva, Uzbekistan.
👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.
✅ Very good route, wide and flat, around the city walls, of 2.5 kms which allows you to customise the length of your run
✅ If you dare to venture into the Itchan Sala, you will run past maravelous buildings like the Kalta Minor Minaret.
