Running with local kids and across suspension bridges in Tajikistan 

Penjikent, Tayikistan. 22nd September 2024.

We ran with local kids and across the Zarafshon river on a suspension bridge which deck was made of wood while the sun was setting in the legendary Fann mountains.

TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”

• I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
• I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
• Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
• Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
• I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.

🌍 The trip 📷: What to see in Tajikistan in a couple of days

We headed to Penjikent on our way to see the Seven Lakes, but Penjikent is a very interesting city that has a lot to offer.

When we crossed the border, we already realized we had entered a very special country. Pardina, our local guide, told us that “takijs are very friendly” (and, spoiler, they are!), but an old woman, when learning one of our group members was 80, was so positively surprised, that she hugged her! And then she gave her some bread!

Once in the city, we enjoyed the atmosphere, with streets bustling with life, chaos and colors.

Olim Dodkhokh Mosque and Madrassah

We started our visit in the Olim Dodkhokh Mosque and Madrassah. Of course, after having visited Samarcand, this mosque is small and plain.

But it had beautiful wooden work and gave us a taste of the real Tajik and Uzbek Islamic practice.

Penjikent Bazaar

From there we headed to the Panjakent Bazaar, and what an experience!

Similar to other bazaars, this one was very nice as people did not annoy us, they let us be… see, take pictures, walk around. The huge cabbages and the tons of onions really caught our eye!

Ancient Penjikent

After lunch, we headed to Ancient Penkijent, which history dates back to the Bronze Age.

It was a very sunny day and the view from the ruins of the river, the picturesque Zeravshan river valley and the modern city was stunning!

The ancient Penjikent was part of the state of Sogdiana, an Iranian civilization that controlled large territories in Central Asia more than a thousand years ago, and whose main religion was Zoroastrianism.

The Rudaki Museum

Finally we visited the Rudaki museum, where our guide explained at length facts and figures of Ancient Penjikent, and we saw ancient frescoes or relics from Soviet times. 

The Seven Lakes

The day after, we visited the “seven lakes”, which was the highlight of our short trip to Tajikistan. 

The Seven Lakes, also known as the Haft Kul, are a series of stunning alpine lakes located in the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. 

Each lake is renowned for its unique color and breathtaking scenery. Word of caution: it is not easy to get there: we got our local guide to drive us there and at some points in the road I got quite scared!

The first lake is Iskanderkul Lake, whose color is turquoise, and is named after Alexander the Great. 

The second lake is Sari Kul Lake, whose color is bright blue, and is known for its clear waters and stunning reflections of the surrounding peaks.

Third lake is Kulikalon Lake, whose color is emerald green. 

Fourth lake is Marguzor Lake, whose color varies from blue to green. This is the largest of the Seven Lakes and has several small beaches. 

Fifth lake is Khurdak Lake, whose color is dark blue, offers a tranquil environment and is perfect for those seeking a more secluded experience.

Sixth lake is Sazgari Lake, whose color is deep blue, and is known for its dramatic cliffs and stunning vistas.

Seventh lake is Zuzva Lake, whose color varies from azure to teal.

🏃‍♀️ The run 🏃‍♂️

Penjikent city center

It was late afternoon when we left our hotel in Penjikent to go for our run in Tajikistan.

The guy at reception was very curious about our run, and he mentioned to us that he would never run, but that “his girlfriend was very sporty”. Everybody seemed to be so friendly!

We timed our run perfectly, as one hour later the sun set behind the magnificent Fann mountains, and it turned dark very quickly.

And once it gets dark you cannot go running in the city. There are barely any lights, and in some places, there are open sewers, so it can get risky!

We ran down Avenue, where we took some videos of the Devashtich Monument.

And in front of a very soviet-looking (and quite bizarre) monument in a roundabout.

Penjikent has very wide streets, and not too many people, so it is quite good for running. However, traffic is intense and there is a lot of pollution.

We passed another picturesque roundabout: this one had… a massive decorated teapot and cups!

And in a building nearby, we saw Soviet mosaics, which nowadays are difficult to find.

We decided to go down to the Zarafshon river and see the bridge: the route goes down for a kilometer or so, and later we had to go up. Very good training for our legs!

The bridge and the Zeravshan river valley

When we reached the bridge, we were surprised!

It is a suspension bridge, quite massive, and its deck was made of… wood! We had never seen something like that.

There was quite a bit of traffic, and the cars would stop and say things like “Hello my friend!”. In other cars, children would wave at us!

We saw families carrying grass or something that looked like it on bicycles, and a lot of trucks and cars in very bad condition.

The sun was setting already, and the landscape was absolutely beautiful: this was the Zeravshan river valley. What a great idea to have run here!

After crossing back and forth, we came back to the city, struggling a little on the way up.

It was here that there was an open sewer which looked very deep!

Rudaki Museum and… “I love Penjikent”!

We then ran past the Rudaki museum, which we had seen in the afternoon. A group of kids were playing football and started shouting “Messi! Messi!”

We found the people in the streets to be friendly and look at us like we were freaks, but not in an aggressive way.

When we got closer to the hotel, we realized that next to the Devashtich Monument there was a sign “I love Penjikent”. So we went there to take a video.

Three girls saw us and started to say “Hello, hello!” and followed us. So, when I reached the sign and started to run, I asked them if they would run with me… and they did! One of them was especially eager, and very competitive! She beat me!!!

It was an absolute pleasure to run with these happy girls for a few rounds, smiling, laughing… Something I will remember for a very long time!

What a nice, scenic run in a city that is so distant, in so many ways, from what we are used to.

🍜 Carboloading 🍝: What to eat in Tajikistan if you are a runner

Tajikistan’s cuisine features several dishes that are rich in carbohydrates and in protein, reflecting the country’s traditional reliance on grains, bread, and starchy vegetables.

We ate Oshi Palov (Plov), which we already tasted in Uzbekistan, and which is made with rice, meat (usually lamb or beef), carrots, onions, and sometimes chickpeas or raisins.

Not only Plov, we also ate a couple of dishes with meat and boiled vegetables which were delicious:

And we also had very good soups, with cheese, rice and vegetables:

🏆 5k run in Penjikent, Tajikistan

👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.

✅ The possibility of seeing life in the vibrant city of Penjikent; people are friendly, and they will encourage you while you run!·

✅ Wide streets and the possibility to “customize” your run adding hills, or just keeping it flat.

“Hurramabad” by Andrei Volos

This novel is a significant work of post-Soviet literature and is set in the fictional city of Hurramabad, which is modeled after the Tajik capital, Dushanbe. The book explores the tumultuous period in Tajikistan following the collapse of the Soviet Union, focusing on the civil war, ethnic tensions, and the experiences of Russians and other minorities in the country. It’s a powerful narrative about loss, displacement, and the complexities of identity.