Petra, Jordan. September 2022.
Thinking about running the Petra Desert Marathon? Here’s everything you need to know from a runner who lived it — from the Treasury starting line to the blazing slopes of Wadi Rum.
In 2022, starting in Petra’s Treasury, our footsteps echoed in gorges that hide lost civilizations. We heard the “piercing crunch of the sand” that fascinated Lawrence of Arabia, and we put ourselves to the test climbing dizzying slopes under a blazing sun ☀️⛰️.
TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”
- I just want to run! Take me to RACE.
- I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
- Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
- Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
- I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.
🌍 The Trip 📷
The race normally takes place beginning of September. In 2025, the race will take place on the 6th of September 📆.
First of all, a warning ⚠️: flying on the 31st of August from Barcelona is a bad idea. Our airline forced us to board our hand luggage due to the crowds of tourists trying to return home 🧳. And while we were landing in Amman, our suitcases were lost in Rome, where we had previously stopped 🌀.
But we were not (yet) deterred by it! 💪 We went ahead to the Dead Sea. The Petra Extreme Desert Marathon is organized by the Danish agency Albatros Adventure Marathons, and the package includes such a stay.
Dead Sea 🌊
The Dead Sea was surrounded by a desolate landscape, with stony beaches and brownish hills.
In the villages there were no paved streets, but plenty of shops that were over-lit 💡… and full of floats. We did not buy a float, but we did buy a pair of swimsuits (at “tourist” price 💸), since our suitcases continued their “dolce vita” in Rome 🍝.
We were confident that our luggage would arrive in time for the race… but it did not ❌.
The Dead Sea is one of the most surreal places on Earth. A shimmering, salty lake that sits at the lowest point on the planet, more than 400 meters below sea level!
Its waters have drawn travelers for millennia, from King Herod to Cleopatra, who supposedly prized its minerals for their skin-healing properties 💎.
Historically, it’s been both a spiritual symbol and a geological wonder: mentioned in biblical texts, bordered by ancient kingdoms, and surrounded by a barren, otherworldly landscape of salt formations and ochre cliffs.
Floating in the Dead Sea is an experience like no other — you don’t swim, you hover 💧:
The water is so dense with minerals (over eight times saltier than the ocean) that your body is pushed to the surface like a cork!
It’s a strange and slightly hilarious sensation, especially the first time you try to stand up! And, as showed in the picture, I smeared myself in the famous Dead Sea mud. Because it is a must 🧖♀️! It’s rich in magnesium, sodium, and potassium, and leaves your skin soft and refreshed!
Wadi Rum
By the time we settled in Wadi Rum, it became clear that in order to have clothes to run, we would have to “depend on the kindness of strangers” 🤝 (to paraphrase Tennessee Williams):
I have always depended on the kindness of strangers
A streetcar named desire, Tennessee Williams
Because our suitcased had not arrived.
Already on the five-hour bus ride 🚍, we asked one of the guides to ask if someone could lend us shoes and clothes 👟👕, and when we arrived at the Race Briefing, the race director transmitted our desperate message 📣
“First of all, a request: two unfortunate runners have lost their baggage…”.
The response was amazing and overwhelmingly positive 🙌💗. We got all the equipment, and I must especially thank one Dutch lady named Petra, thanks to whom I was able to race… in Petra 😄🏃♀️. The Nike skirt I am wearing in the pictures was a gift of hers! And she even gave us magnesium pills 💊!
🏃♀️ The Race 🏃♂️
None of them came from the desert, but their lives followed the same pattern. An incomprehensible passionate longing pushed them into the desert.
The seven pillars of wisdom, T.E. Lawrence 📚
We left the hotel at 5am 🌅, with sporting clothes that ended up being even better than our own! (Which were still in our lost suitcases 😬).
It was still dark, and the 250 runners covered the kilometer and a half towards the start with the only illumination from our mobile phones 📱 and with the risk of spraining an ankle 🤕.
Only the day after, in broad daylight ☀️, would we be aware of the impressive pink sandstone gorges we traversed, like the rugged bowels of an imagined world 🌍, and were able to take in all the wonders that the ancient home of the Nabateans has to offer 🏺.
Starting line
At 6am we set out in front of the “Treasury” — the most famous building in Petra 🏛️🌟
The Treasury of Petra, known as Al-Khazneh, is a magnificent rock-carved façade in southern Jordan, famed for its intricate Hellenistic design. Believed to have been a royal tomb or temple, it is one of the most iconic and best-preserved monuments in the ancient Nabataean city.
The historical site was not yet open to tourists, so the fairytale atmosphere offered great possibilities for a photograph.
🎬 We felt like Indiana Jones in the very famous “Indiana Jones and the last Crusader“: a movie that is often sported in tourists gift shops in here, by the way 🕵️♂️!
First kilometers
But, if the start is one of the most beautiful in the world 🌍✨, the race is also one of the toughest 😰!
The marathon involves over 1,000 meters of positive elevation gain and another 1,000 down, under a scorching sun ☀️ and through sandy areas.
The terrain of the first 2 kilometers is difficult… and it gets worse 😅.
At least the temperature was still pleasant, and we enjoyed views of the royal tombs. Soon the slopes began! And they were so hard that we even thought the altimetry graph 📊 (which showed the worst climb from km 10 to 17) was wrong!! Spoiler: it wasn’t 😩!
Kilometers 6 to 15
At km 6️⃣ we left the road and went along sandy paths and capriciously shaped mountains, to the Siq Al Bard river bed.
Some locals on camels 🐪 greeted us with mischievous smiles 😏. They surely thought we were crazy!
The organization was solid ✅, with refreshment stations 🧃🍌 every few kilometers.
At kilometer 10, the brutal slope began: endless asphalt uphill!! We walked, and I smeared myself with sunscreen.
The final kilometers
After over 90 minutes of pain, our feet ached from the borrowed shoes 😖👟.
But we held on 💥, crossing long gravel paths until the downhill began… and we finally reached Wadi Rum!!
W here we crossed the finish line with a speaker in traditional hatta shouting our names 📢!
After the race… 📷
After the race, the package included a visit to the incredible site of the hidden City of Petra.
Visiting Petra is like stepping into a lost world — one carved from rose-colored stone and steeped in mystery!
Once the thriving capital of the Nabataean kingdom, Petra was a crossroads of ancient trade routes and home to skilled engineers who carved entire temples, tombs, and even water systems into the cliffs.
Walking through the Siq, a narrow canyon flanked by towering rock walls, builds anticipation…
… until you reach the breathtaking reveal of the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) — one of the most iconic sights in the world 🏛️:
But Petra is much more than just the Treasury.
As you explore deeper, you’ll find royal tombs, a Roman-style theatre, intricate facades, and steep trails that lead to jaw-dropping viewpoints like the Monastery (Deir). The landscape feels both cinematic and sacred, but we couldn’t help ourselves and posed doing a “fireman’s carry” because I was complaining that I felt very tired 😅
Jokes aside, with every step, you sense the weight of history — and a surreal feeling of awe that stays with you long after you leave.
Visiting Petra is an unforgettable experience and, despite our tired legs, we spent a couple of days enjoying the big archeological site.
P.S. ✈️ The bags arrived on the last day… just before the return flight 🤷♀️
But what we took home couldn’t fit in them anyway: the pride 🏆 of finishing a grueling desert race, crossing pink stone gorges, seeing ancient tombs… and enduring an epic journey through one of Earth’s most magical places 🌍✨.
🍜 Eating in Jordan for the Petra Desert Marathon🍝
Running a marathon in the desert isn’t just about endurance — it’s also about fueling right.
Luckily, Jordanian cuisine offers plenty of delicious, local dishes that can help you carb-load before the race and recover with protein afterward. Here’s how to eat like a runner in Jordan:
🍚 Before the Race: Carbo-Loading Jordanian Style
To build up energy stores before the race, focus on slow-burning carbs and moderate portions of protein. Jordanian meals are ideal for this:
- 🍛 Mansaf – Jordan’s national dish: rice, lamb, and a rich yogurt-based sauce called jameed. Ask for extra rice and go easy on the lamb if you want to keep it light.
- 🥘 Maqluba – Literally means “upside-down.” A hearty dish made with rice, potatoes, eggplant, and meat. It’s filling, energy-packed, and great the day before a big race.
- 🍚 Kabsa – A spiced rice dish with nuts, raisins, and often chicken. It’s less heavy than Mansaf and a great option for a carb-dense, balanced meal.
- 🍞 Fresh Pita with Hummus & Falafel – A plant-based powerhouse. Falafel provides protein and fats, while hummus and pita offer steady energy.
- 🥗 Tabbouleh & Fattoush – Fresh salads that add hydration and nutrients without weighing you down.
🧃 PRO TIP: Pair your meal with fresh juices (like pomegranate or lemon-mint) instead of soda. Hydrating and vitamin-rich!
🥩 After the Race: Recovery and Protein
Once you’ve crossed the finish line, your body will be craving protein, minerals, and hydration. Here’s what to look for:
- 🍢 Shish Taouk or Kofta – Grilled chicken or beef skewers served with rice or flatbread. Great for muscle recovery and restoring energy.
- 🍲 Lentil Soup (Shorbat Adas) – Light, easy on the stomach, and full of iron and protein. Perfect if you’re feeling tired or dehydrated.
- 🍳 Fuul (Fava Beans) – A popular breakfast dish, rich in protein and fiber. Served warm with olive oil, lemon, and herbs — it’s soothing and satisfying post-run.
- 🥛 Labneh with Olive Oil & Za’atar – A thick yogurt spread high in protein and probiotics. Spread on bread for a simple, gut-friendly snack.
- 🍌 Bananas & Dates – Found at refreshment stations and local shops alike. High in potassium and natural sugars to quickly replenish energy stores.
💧 Don’t forget: Jordanian meals are often salty — helpful for restoring electrolytes after sweating buckets in Wadi Rum.
Eating in Jordan as a runner isn’t just functional — it’s a feast of culture, flavor, and tradition. Whether you’re fueling up before Petra or recovering in the shade of a Bedouin tent, the local cuisine will help power your adventure.
Bonus dinner during the trip!
Also, the package also included a magnificent celebratory dinner in a desert gorge, under the stars…
We watched the race video, and the fastest runners 🥇 received their prizes 🏆.
It was an amazing experience, with a magical atmosphere with delicious traditional dishes 🍛 like Kabsa and Maqluba 🍗🍚.
Useful information
🏆 Petra’s Extreme Desert Marathon (42K) / Half Marathon (21K) Number of runners: 250. Cut-off time: 7h for the full marathon.
⛰️ Difficulty Very high. More than a thousand meters of positive slope and more than a thousand negative. High temperatures, and difficult surfaces: sand, gravel and rock.
🌐 Website https://petra-desert-marathon.com/
🗓️ End of August / beginning of September in Petra, Jordan. 2025 date is 6th of September.
👟 Trail shoes. Do not forget to bring them in your hand luggage! 😅 Please read here the recommended equipment for hot climates.
🏅 You will get home with a technical marathon shirt (Albatros Adventure Marathons have special good taste in the design of their shirts), and upon arrival, a nice and robust medal 👕🎖️
✅ Very well organized: every detail is taken care of.
✅ The visit of Petra included in the tour allows you to visit a wonderful place.
⚠️ It is a very difficult race, and there are quite a few runners who fail to complete it within the 7 hour time limit 🥵
Map
One book
📚 “Appointment with Death”, by Agatha Christie 🔎
Agatha Christie’s novel “Appointment with Death” is set in Petra 🏜️. The novel transforms Petra into a dramatic, suspenseful backdrop. You’ll recognize actual locations (like tombs, cliffs, and caves 🪦🪨) described in the book.
And seeing them in person makes you feel like you’re walking through a real-life detective story 🕵️♂️.
Christie’s vivid descriptions bring Petra to life even before you see it. Then when you’re there, the landscape feels strangely familiar, like you’re retracing Poirot’s footsteps 👣. It gives your trip a literary layer, as if you’re stepping into a page of the book 📖.
In that valley, sheltered in a cave like a priestess of an evil cult, was Mrs. Boynton…
The novel also offers a fascinating look at how Westerners viewed Petra in the early 20th century — through the lens of both tourism 🧳 and colonial-era attitudes. It’s an interesting comparison to modern-day travel and shows how the perception of Petra has evolved.
Summary:
By Agatha Christie, the acknowledged mistress of suspense, creator of indomitable sleuth Miss Marple, meticulous Belgian detective Hercule Poirot and so many other unforgettable charactersbrings. In this book, the unstoppable Poirot finds himself in the Middle East with only one day to solve a murder in the classic Agatha Christie mystery Appointment with Death
To know more…
| 📖 “Seven pillars of wisdom”, T.E. Lawrence. 🎬 “Lawrence of Arabia”, 1962. 🎬 “Indiana Jones and the last crusade”, 1989. |
“Seven pillars of wisdom”, by T.E. Lawrence
I read this book when I travelled to Saudi Arabia, but it was the landscapes in the current Jordan where the book shines the most. Wadi Rum was the operations center of T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia), in 1917, during his campaign to take Aqaba, which he faithfully describes in his extensive tale.
A long, detailed and insightful book, that is interesting to understand how a British educated fellow understood the particularities of the tribes inhabiting those lands, how he ended up loving the desert… and why the Arab revolt was doomed.
