Running with the Regulares in Melilla’s Half Marathon

Melilla’s Half Marathon, Melilla, Spain. 16th of November 2025.

We ran amongst the Spanish Army “Regulares” in the “City of Sport”, Melilla. A flat and very well organized Half Marathon which allows you to run along one of the most tense borders in the world, guarded by a high fence. A great race with a unique flavour: that of a Spanish city in Africa.

TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”

• I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
• I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
• Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
• Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
• I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.

🌍 The trip 📷

I was very curious to discover Melilla, one of the two “Ciudades Autonomas” in Spain, in the North of Africa. Melilla has an airport, but we decided to arrive by sea. We drove to Motril, in Almeria, and took the Ferry from there.

We drove in our motorhome and enjoyed stopping and discovering new amazing places in Spain. We live in one of the most beautiful, diverse and culturally rich countries in the world, so we love taking the motorhome, stopping somewhere and running there. 

Getting there: Hoces de Cabriel, Cuenca

First stop, Hoces de Cabriel, in Cuenca.

We spent the night here and enjoyed a 5k run in the Natural Reserve. We ran in front of a great Dam and even saw mountain goats which crossed the road while running!

Then we drove South for a few hours more, stopped in Manchareal, Jaen, for a day to visit family, and finally left our motorhome in Motril, Granada. 

Ferry Motril to Melilla

Taking the ferry from Motril to Melilla is an adventure in itself ⛴️.

The journey across the Mediterranean gives you stunning views of the coastline, and the excitement builds as the city slowly comes into sight. On our trip, the ferry was full of military personnel, including members of la Legión, Spain’s famous army unit 🇪🇸.

Seeing the legionarios in their distinctive uniforms, chapiri included, with their disciplined presence and camaraderie, really added a sense of history and tradition to the voyage.

La Legión is known for its rigorous training, bold reputation, and quirky customs. Most famously their mascot, a live goat 🐐, which accompanies parades and ceremonies.

It was fascinating to witness such a strong part of Spanish military culture up close while heading toward the fortified city, knowing that Melilla’s history and defense are still very much alive today.

Although we didn’t see the walls from sea, since we arrived at 6am and it was still dark.

Arriving at Melilla

We left our luggage at the hotel. Melilla is manageable enough not to have a car. We walked while enjoying a beatiful sunrise. 

After breakfast, we set off to explore the city. 

Race Expo

But, first, we went to Hotel “Melilla Puerto” where the Expo was taking place. 

The hotel was one of Melilla’s biggest and finest (although we stayed in the Parador and wer loved it! They offered late checkout for free, had amazing views of the city and a great restauranta). 

The Expo was big enough for a small race. It had two commercial stands: one for shoes and one for protein products. There were no queues. Not even to take a picture in front of the “photocall” with the Melilla Half Marathon and sporsors wall. 

We went directly to the 21k counter where local youths gave us our package. 

The runners pack had the BIBs, a tshirt (big size, since mine was XS and it was big for me!), a couple of gels and a couple of protein bars. Plus very nice magnets to hold your BIB in place. Although, for the race we opted for the traditional pins, since we had seen in Tokyo 2024,where you were given magnets as well, many magnets on the ground during the race…

🌍 The trip 📷: What to see in Melilla in a couple of days

With our BIBs and tShirts, we went sightseeing. 

When you’re exploring Melilla, the sightseeing is a mix of history, culture, and breathtaking views 🌆. 

A must-see is Plaza España, the city’s vibrant heart, lined with cafés, shops, and impressive modernist buildings dating back to the early 20th century. It’s a perfect spot for people-watching, enjoying a coffee, or catching a glimpse of local events and festivals ☕🎉. 

Not far from there, Plaza de las 4 Culturas reflects Melilla’s unique identity, celebrating the city’s Spanish, Jewish, Hindu, and Muslim heritage. A true testament to centuries of coexistence 🕌✡️🕉️✝️. 

The square is surrounded by architecturally stunning buildings, each representing the traditions of its respective community, making it a living museum of cultural harmony.

The crown jewel of Melilla’s history is Melilla la Vieja, the old fortified city. 

Walking its thick stone walls and cobbled streets, you can imagine the soldiers, merchants, and pirates who once defended this strategic Mediterranean port.

Inside, the historic cannons, watchtowers, and narrow alleys are full of stories waiting to be discovered 🏰. 

Las Cuevas del Conventico

We even explored Las Cuevas del Conventico, hidden caves within the fortress that were once used by monks and later as shelters. 

An exciting and mysterious part of the old city you can actually enter! 

If you want to visit, make sure to book, as you can only access with a prior reservation. And, oh, it’s free! 

For a more contemporary and politically charged experience, the border fence with Morocco is hard to miss. 

The barrier, heavily fortified with multiple layers and surveillance systems, has been in the news recently due to migration pressures, attempts to cross, and occasional clashes.

Seeing it in person gives a real sense of Melilla’s complex modern reality 🌍🚧, highlighting the city’s unique position as a European enclave in North Africa, juxtaposed against its rich historical and cultural heritage. 

We were happy to check the route and see we would run along the fence during the race!

🏃‍♀️ The Race 🏃‍♂️

The Half Marathon was set to start at 10am, not too early. Good! 

The event had 4 races: the mini marathon for kids, a 5k, a 10k and a Half Marathon.

The runners running the Half had our numbers in black, the 10k in red and the 5k in green. And you could personalise your bib, so mine read “The Running Ginger”!!

The minimarathon was set to start at 9:30 and it did, very punctually. 

It was raining! But many people were not deterred by the weather and arrived at 9:30 to support the kids. 

The Mini Marathon

We loved the “Mini marathon” where local kids (almost a hundred!) ran 1 kilometer. It was so cute, so funny and at the same time, so inspiring! We saw two kids in wheelchairs, even. The winners completed the kilometer in a little more than 4 minutes, which is remarkable, while some others, younger, appeared lost. Some took it very seriously and all sprinted in the beginning and at the end, not quite good at measuring pace yet!

When the Mini Marathon was over and we were slowly going to the Start line to prepare for our race, we already saw a lot of young fit guys in red shirts: those were the “Regulares de Melilla”, and the ran the half marathon with their army corps banners. 

We also saw other fit-looking men and women, many of them members of the police or the guardia civil. 

Luckily, it stopped raining at around 9:45 so we could run the whole race in perfect weather! It was not sunny either, which was great. The day before, Saturday, was a sunny day and we struggled with the heat. 

We set off!

We started at 10:00 sharp in front of a monument dedicated to those who “fell giving their live to the nation”. The atmosphere was energetic, vibrant and very patriotic indeed, with some big spanish flags. 

The start was not particually fast, which is good. And it was flat and scenic, with views of the Monumental Plaza España, the walls of Melilla la Vieja and the sea.

The only elevation was a brige connecting the harbour with the long Paseo Maritimo in front of the beaches. Two light ramps that we had to pass two times.

The guy with the flag running barefoot

In front of us there was a guy who carried a massive Spanish flag the whole 21 kilometers… and ran barefoot! It was funny to hear some of our fellow runners, who most likely knew him, because they called him by his name, joked out loud: “Ponedle unos clavos! Y un poco de Fairy!”: which translates to “Put some nails on the ground!”. They were quite funny!!!

He was quite fast, too. I think he ran in 1h 45 minutes or so. 

The “Regulares”

We ran with groups of Regulares in their red shirts. They kept the pace perfectly. Not too fast, but steady.

Only a few of them were left behind as they could not keep up, but the vast majority of them ran together. 

The Route

The Route was 2 laps, which made sense since the city is not particularly big,so one needs to be creative to have a route which is not hilly and runs 21 kilometer. The route avoided going up the hills, like the one where Melilla la Vieja is.

It is a good route, only 8 meters elevation in total, and quite scenic. You ran past the old walls of Melilla la vieja, alongside many beaches, the port, and the border!

Running alongside the famous fence which we had seen in the news in the past was especially cool. Luckily today there were no incidents and we could enjoy every meter. 

And the start and finish are in Plaza España, which is a beautiful place and wide enough so there are no problems. 

Logistics 

There were enough water stations: only water was given but given the route was not specially demanding, we thought it was enough. 

Plus, the weather was great for a PB 🙂

Reyes Estevez trying to break a record

With us ran Reyes Estevez, a famous medium distance runner who was born in 1976. He was a elite olympic runner 30 years ago, and nowadays he is famous for being still very fast in his forties.

Running with number “1”, he was trying to break the Spanish record for 45+ years olds, which currently stands at 1h 5m. He won the race overall, which is remarkable since he was competing with guys half his age, but he couldn’t break the record. He stopped the clock at 1h 09m. Still, he is such an inspiration!

The Finish

At kilometer 19, a group of regulares overran us. We took some videos of them with their flag, while they were marching at a steady pace. We were going slower than in the beginning, but still at a good pace, around 5:50 minutes the kilometer or so. Then, at kilometer 20, Roger suggested that, since I was quite fresh, I ran faster to reach them and then I could make a video.

And so I did!

I ran kilometer 19.5 to 20.5 at 4:30 minutes the kilometer to get to them! 

Plus, when there were like 500 meters left, arrving to Plaza de España, another group of regulares who had been slighlty faster waited for the second group. I was running a few meters ahead, in front of them and I entered a few seconds before, taking a video. 

It was such a high! Entering with the Spanish Army “folllowing me”!

A minute later Roger entered and I was at the Finish line to record the moment! 

I had run in 2 hours 1minute, second in my category. Not too bad considering I had major back surgery earlier this year. 

Post Race

We were given water, powerade, oranges and bananas…. and the medals… which were massive! In fact they were the same for all distances, even the “mini marathon”, so it was very funny to see the little kids sporting medals bigger than them!

“Sufre mamón” was playing, and the atmosphere was festive. A lot of families, a lot of spanish flags and a lot of military personnel everywhere. Even the sun was shining. 

All in all, I really recommend this Half Marathon. Especially if you are looking for a PB. Melilla calls itself “the city of sport” and from what we saw, it deserves its name!

🍜 Carboloading 🍝: What to eat in Melilla if you are a runner

When you’re training in Melilla, you can make carb-loading feel like part of the adventure 🍽️. The city’s blend of Spanish and Amazigh flavors means you can fuel up with generous plates of couscous or pastela with its flaky, sweet-savory layers. Perfect for stocking up on energy before race day 😋.

Even something as simple as local tortas de aceite or a hearty portion of potatoes with paprika can give you that satisfying “ready to run” boost. Or a paella. Never fails!

After the race, you can shift toward protein for recovery 💪. Melilla’s seaside vibe offers plenty of fresh grilled fish, and you can’t go wrong with pinchitos morunos. Spiced skewers that hit the spot after a tough effort. You can also go for lomo de ternera for a hearty protein punch or huevos revueltos con jamón for something quick and satisfying, like we did:

Pair them with a crisp salad or roasted veggies to help your muscles bounce back while still enjoying the city’s rich food culture 🌅.

Running here isn’t just about the miles. It’s about the meals, too.

🏆 Half Marathon Melilla. Mini marathon (1 km), 5k, 10k and 21k.

🌐 Website: https://melillaciudaddeldeporte.es/events/media-maraton-10-k-5-k/

🏃 Number of runners: Aprox 1000.

🗓️ November in Melilla, Spain.

👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.

✅ Unique atmosphere that mixes culture, history and adventure

✅ A flat, fast and scenic course perfect for PBs

⚠️ Not an easy commute! But taking the Ferry is kinda cool 😝

“Imán”, by Ramón J. Sender

A great companion for a trip to Melilla is Imán by Ramón J. Sender, a powerful novel set around the Rif War and the Spanish presence in North Africa. 

Reading it while you’re here adds an extra layer to the city’s atmosphere. The narrow streets, the fortress walls, and the views toward Morocco all feel richer when you have the book’s vivid historical tension in mind. It doesn’t just entertain; it places you right inside the region’s past, making every corner of Melilla feel like part of a larger story.

You’ll also find that the novel helps you appreciate Melilla’s cultural mix in a deeper way. As you explore the modernist buildings, taste the local food, or run along the coastline, the contrasts and coexistence described in the book resonate with the city around you. Imán turns your visit into a kind of literary time travel, letting you experience Melilla not just as a destination, but as a setting layered with history, conflict, and resilience.

Perfect for travelers who love pairing stories with scenery.