The land of a thousand hills: Kigali International Peace Marathon

Kigali International Peace Marathon. 8th June 2025.

We conquered a few of the thousand hills of Rwanda during the 10k of the “Race for Peace” in the Kigali International Peace Marathon. A fast-growing event with a challenging course with stunning views over the city.

TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”

• I just want to run! Take me to RACE.
• I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
• Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
• Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
• I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.

🌍 The trip 📷: What to see in Rwanda in a week

The country of a thousand hills

For my generation, Rwanda is interwined in our collective memory with the Rwandan genocide. When bands of hutus with machetes mass-killed tutsis. 

At that time, TV was the only source of information. And we could see the images and shiver at the massacre happening. 

So for me this trip had a reflective, and at the same time, evocative, aspect. I wanted to see the land I had seen on TV as a young adult. And the trip did not disappoint me. 

I wrote these lines in the Volcanos National Park while heavy rain made our lodge’ ceiling tremble. The sound of the heavy rain outside, coming and going, made me very aware of where I was. Of how nature shapes the life of Rwandan people. African nature, wild and volatile.

This trip was truly special and some of the images will stay with me forever. 

Three little students, dressed in uniform, running on the road under the heavy rain, next to a woman armed with a huge umbrella of vibrant colours. While in the emerald green fields farmers were nonchalantly working their fields, not deterred by the rain, in front of volcanos covered in mist. 

Crossing from Uganda

We crossed the land border from Uganda on a rainy afternoon of June, amidst trucks and bicycles loaded with all kinds of goods 😀

It was busy but people did not look threatening, and the officials did not ask for a bribe. Also, it was the first time that two countries shared the “Exit” and the “Entry” desks in a single building.

We passed without much hassle. We even took a few pictures, with a sculpture with three gorillas and the colours of the Rwandan flag 🇷🇼, or in front of trucks!

First impressions and first facts

I found the first differences with Uganda just after entering.

First, here the mototaxis wore all helmets 🙂 And our guide, Leticia, pointed out that it is by law.

Also it seemed to me that in Rwanda dressed more traditionally. And the patterns of the women’ s dresses were more visual and more geometric, with much more vibrant colours!

I looked it up on the internet later 😂, and turned out that in Rwanda, the traditional women’s attire is called the “umushanana”.

It consists of a long, flowing fabric wrapped around the waist over a skirt and draped over one shoulder. It is typically worn with a matching blouse. 

While in Uganda, one of the most iconic traditional dresses for women is the “gomesi”, which is a brightly colored dress with a square neckline, puffed sleeves, and a sash tied around the waist. 

Tree-lined roads

I was surprised when we entered Rwanda because the roads were tree-lined, with tall tress planted by humans. 

They reassembled European avenues, with their very nice shade. “It might be the influence of the French”, said Roger.

Although Rwanda used to be a Belgium colony, not French…

So now it is time to write here a little bit about Rwanda’s recent history:

History bit: Very turbulent last 100 years…

Rwanda’s recent history is deeply shaped by its colonial past, particularly under Belgian rule, which began after World War I when Belgium took control from Germany. The Belgian administration intensified ethnic divisions between the Hutu and Tutsi populations by introducing identity cards and favoring the Tutsi minority in political and educational opportunities. This institutionalized inequality sowed long-term resentment among the Hutu majority. By the time Rwanda gained independence in 1962, tensions had escalated, and the newly empowered Hutu leadership reversed the power dynamics, leading to cycles of violence and displacement of Tutsis over the following decades.

These historical divisions reached a catastrophic climax in 1994, when the Rwandan Genocide unfolded over a span of approximately 100 days. Following the assassination of President Juvénal Habyarimana, extremist Hutu forces launched a systematic campaign to exterminate the Tutsi population and moderate Hutus. It is estimated that between 800,000 and 1 million people were killed. The international community largely failed to intervene in time, and the brutality of the genocide left the country shattered, with deep psychological scars and a decimated population.

In the aftermath, the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), led by Paul Kagame, took control and ended the genocide. The new government focused on rebuilding the nation through reconciliation, justice (notably via the Gacaca court system), and social unity. Over the years, Rwanda has experienced significant progress in economic development, health, and education, as well as strong efforts toward national healing. However, the legacy of the genocide remains a central part of the country’s identity, with memorials and national remembrance playing a vital role in ensuring that the horrors of 1994 are neither forgotten nor repeated.

The Volcanoes National Park

We stayed in the cozy Le Bambou Gorilla Lodge: in fact, I wrote some of this post in front of the fire, with a hot ginger tea. 

(Foto)

The lodge, as its web indicates, is extremely close to the Volcanoes National Park.

Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is a breathtakingly beautiful sanctuary nestled in the Virunga Mountains, home to five towering volcanic peaks, including Mount Karisimbi, the tallest at 4,507 meters (14,787 feet). 

This park is world-renowned for its population of endangered mountain gorillas, famously studied by Dian Fossey, and offers one of the most intimate and awe-inspiring wildlife experiences on Earth. 

I just can’t describe how special it was to trek through its mist-covered slopes, dense bamboo forests, and volcanic terrain. It was not just a physical journey, but a deeply emotional one.

The Park is also “a haven for the endangered mountain gorillas”.

We had had our close encounter with the gorillas in Uganda, and the plan was to visit the Golden Monkeys. 

The Golden Monkeys

Golden monkeys in Rwanda are a rare and endangered primate species found primarily in the Virunga Mountains, within Volcanoes National Park. 

Known for their striking golden-orange fur and playful behavior, these monkeys live in bamboo forests at high altitudes and typically move in large social groups. 

They are a unique subspecies of the blue monkey and are endemic to this region, making Rwanda one of the only places in the world where they can be observed in their natural habitat. 

Conservation efforts, including eco-tourism and habitat protection, have been essential in preserving their populations, offering visitors a chance to witness their beauty while supporting local and environmental sustainability.

The way it worked

Very similar to the chimps or the gorilla walks we did in Uganda, there are strict rules which need to be observed.

And I am happy to report that all tourists seemed to be obedient, in all of our experiences we did not have any ‘rogue’ tourist! 👍

We had to wear masks, and we could only stay one hour with the monkeys. Also, we were absolutely forbidden to touch them.

Curiously, you cannot use flash when taking pictures of the gorillas, as it annoys them, but you can use it with the monkeys. “They do not mind”, our ranger told us. 

The Trek

Our trek was not easy, but not so much because of the terrain, but because of the rain.

It was extremely muddy and we wore… running shoes 😱(the rangers used rain boots and the tourist, expensive trekking shoes). 

It took us about half an hour to reach the family of golden monkeys. We did see a few of them, with their golden – obviously – fur, jumping around and eating. They seemed to be petite and cute, after having seen the chimps and the gorillas!

We then hiked amongst very dense vegetation – the trek got a little trickier – to reach a few individuals more, and here we could take very good pictures of a large male who was nonchalantly eating in front of us. 

We ended up very dirty and very wet, but the experience was worthwhile! Trekking in the heart of the African tropical forest to see Golden Monkeys! How cool is that?

Special Accomodation – Hotel Des Mille Collines

I remember seeing “Hotel Rwanda” when it was released, in 2004, and the impact it had on me.

Hotel Rwanda is a 2004 historical drama film based on the true story of Paul Rusesabagina, a hotel manager who sheltered over 1,200 refugees during the 1994 Rwandan Genocide.

Set in Kigali at the Hôtel des Mille Collines, the film portrays how Rusesabagina used his connections, diplomacy, and courage to protect Tutsis and moderate Hutus from massacre, all while the international community largely remained passive.

Directed by Terry George and starring Don Cheadle in an acclaimed performance, Hotel Rwanda brought global attention to the horrors of the genocide and raised questions about humanitarian intervention, the role of media, and the moral responsibility of individuals in times of crisis.

It is still operating!

So when I found out that the hotel was still operating, I decided for our budget to go the extra mile and book ourselves a couple of nights in the hotel.

Today, the Hôtel des Mille Collines has largely distanced itself from the events depicted in the film. 

Managed by a different company than during the genocide, the hotel has been renovated and now functions as a modern, upscale establishment offering hospitality services to business travelers and tourists alike. 

I absolutely loved the passion fruit and dry tomato cocktail they offered us when arriving! 🧋

While the hotel remains a symbolic location due to its historical role, the current management emphasizes its future-facing vision rather than its past. 

The Rwandan government and some survivors have criticized aspects of the film’s portrayal and of Paul Rusesabagina’s legacy, making the hotel’s history a subject of both remembrance and controversy. Nonetheless, it remains a landmark for visitors seeking to understand Rwanda’s history and recovery.

And, by the way, when we entered our taxi was checked thoroughly. A well dressed guy even used a UVSS, an Under-Vehicle Scanning System. It looked like we were in a war zone!

Kigali Genocide Memorial

After our Run for Peace, we walked the 3.7 kms from the Hotel des Mille Collines to the Kigali Genocide Memorial.

It is located on a serene hill in Gisozi just outside central Kigali and it stands over mass graves holding the remains of more than 250,000 victims of the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi.

Inaugurated in 2004 through a collaboration between the Rwandan government and the Aegis Trust, it offers a powerful blend of remembrance and education. 

The entrance is free, but we contributed by renting an audioguide and buying a pin with the word “Ubumuntu”, which means humanity: goodness, generosity and kindness.

I was very impressed and moved. The museum documents Rwanda’s history, the genocide’s unfolding, and the country’s journey toward justice and reconciliation. 

Some parts will stay in my memory forever, like the children’s memorial—featuring life-sized photos and personal stories—and an international context gallery that draws parallels with other genocides, emphasizing the universal lesson: “Never again” 

🏃‍♀️ The Race 🏃‍♂️

Originally we intended to run in Kigali the half marathon, but I had major surgery end of January, so by the time I signed up, two weeks after my surgery, the half marathon was not a possiblity anymore.

I signed us up for the 10k and kept my fingers crossed we would be able to complete them!

Before the Race: signing up

The sign up proces for the Kigali Marathon was straightforward, with a formulaire, and there was the option to use paypal to pay. It was a 29 usd fee for all categories for foreigners not living in Rwanda.

The prices for residents were much cheaper, understandibly.

In the Web it was clearly stated “No BIB Pickup on Race Day”

Since we were arriving to Kigali the day before, quite late at night, I wrote to the race administration and they answered very kindly that they were going to leave open the desk on Saturday for the “Run for peace” runners! 🤩

Race Kit Pick up

The race kits couldn’t be picked up on Sunday – that was made very clear in the website.

We were arriving from Bujumbura at Kigali around 5:30pm so, in order to be on the safe side, I emailed the organization previously to let them know we could be late.

The organisation kindly answered me:

“Hallo dear Marta, we will make sure that you be served. We will arrange a special desk for late hours distribution (only and mainly  for the run for peace runners)”

That was nice 👍, thank you, organisation!

However, finally our RwandAir helix plane finally arrived… ahead of schedule! Before 5pm. So, we could reach Amohoro Stadium with plenty of time.

Marathon Fair – Security first!

We entered the marathon fair, in the monumental Amohoro Stadium, by car.

The security measures were extreme.

Our Uganda guide, Leticia, had said about Rwanda when we entered the country: “This is the land of security!”

Rwanda really is. The airport is the prime example, with not one but many body scans and baggage scans. In the hotel our car was even searched for bombs.

So, logically, when entering the marathon fair, our car and our bags and ourselves were searched by policemen and women.

The Start and Finish – Amohoro Stadium!

The marathon fair, as well as the Start and Finish were all in the same place, which made the logistics easier, less tricky to get to. 

And the fact that it was Amahoro Stadium—officially Amahoro National Stadium— was a plus!

The stadium is Kigali’s premier sports venue. Originally opened in 1986, during the 1994 genocide, the stadium briefly served as a UN-protected refuge for thousands of people.

Between 2022 and 2024, it underwent a major $165 million renovation, which was showing by the time we visited. It looked great!

The upgraded stadium was officially inaugurated on July 1, 2024 by President Kagame alongside CAF’s Patrice Motsepe.

Land of the thousand collins and thousand rain showers?

When we picked up the race kits, it was cloudy and wet. Apparently it had been raining, so we were unsure whether we would face rain the day after. 

Didn’t really matter to us: better to run when raining than under a scorching sun!

In the Marathon Fair we encountered quite a few stalls offering and promoting sport gear and products, more than what I had expected. It was quite large and it had the feel of an “international marathon”, as its name indicates. 

Picking up the BIBs

The registration office was in the “Paralympic complex”.

There were many desks for the “Run for Peace”, the 10k race we were running. 

Not so many for the Half Marathon and even less for the Full Marathon, which gave us an idea of how many runners each race would have.

There were no queues and everything went smoothly. 

We gave our names, explained that we had paid via Paypal, and they gave us our BIBs.

No t-shirt, though… 😭

Since the “Run for Peace” was not cheap (77 EUR), I was expecting one… 

Race Day

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the city that we could enjoy from our room in the Hotel des Mille Collines. Perfect start 🥰

Was the race going to be also such a cool experience? We hoped.

The temperature was cool and it didn’t look like it was going to be a sunny day, but just in case I put on some sun cream. 

This proved the right decision as the sun did shine occasionally. And we were in Africa, near the Equator, where the sun is very dangerous.

Word of caution:

We did not realise, but Kigali is quite high up! It sits at an elevation of approximately 1,567 meters (5,141 feet) above sea level.

And the course race has a lot of ups and downs, obviously this being “the land of the thousand hills”, so do not expect a PB!

Getting there was a quest in itself

We had experienced before the level of security that dominates Rwanda’s life, so we could have expected the roads around the race course(s) to be closed to traffic. 

But we didn’t, and we drove our taxi driver crazy!

We spent half an hour driving around, trying to get to Remera, the neighbourhood where the Amohoro stadium is.

It was cool, though, as that gave us a chance to observe a little bit about Kigali.

We passed by rich-looking suburbs and I loved the slogans painted on the walls in the “Precious Stones Foundation”, which were meant to inspire kids.

They did inspire me!

Kigali has a sports culture

We also saw a lot of runners! Also organised groups, with a running or fitness instructor. We also saw (first time I saw this) a cyclist dressed in complete technical gear. 

And a man who was dressed in a short-sleeved shirt in bright pink colour! My Gosh, what a fashion statement!

Finally, we told our driver to drop us relatively near the stadium. We walked 1 kilometer and we reached the stadium. 

Obviously, before entering the perimeter, we had to go through security checkpoints!

Before the Race

The atmosphere was cool. Quite international: a group of Germans with “Team Germany” t-shirts, a very noisy group of Kenyans with their flag, another even noisier group of Tanzanians…

Also some groups doing exercises to the music. 

I did enjoy the music – they played the same music as in Uganda, Shakira’s “Waka waka” and Avicii’s “Wake me up”.

The facilities were good, with enough toilets, but it was all a little chaotic.

We had been told the race was starting at 8am, but it was 8:10 and nobody was getting closer to the “Start line”

Later, when we saw the awards ceremony on TV, we learnt that the full marathon runners had already started at 7am!

Finally, at 8:05 the speaker told the “Half Marathon runners” to go to the Start Line. We also headed there but were told that the “Race for Peace” start was on the opposite side of the stadium. 

Quite chaotic, indeed…

Where is the “Run for Peace” Start?

We went to the other side where indeed there was a “Start line”.

We waited there listening to loud music while doing stretches and we saw the marathons passing by.

At the time we did not understand it, but they had already been running for one hour and a half. 

And then, all of a sudden, we see hundreds of runners coming to the start (in the opposite direction of the few full marathon runners). We did not understand where they coming from and to this day I still don’t 😂

Anyway, we all positioned ourselves at the Start and … 

Off we went!

The Start

We just started. No speaker, no announcements… people started running.

A group of very energetic drummers dressed impeccably in white (which later I saw on TV) were the main attraction of the start point.

In fact we only turned on our Garmins after a couple hundred meters 🙂…

And then… a few marathon runners were coming in the opposite direction. I couldn’t believe it!

Poor guys. Running against hundreds of people! 

The first kilometers

The first kilometers were down. Nice and easy. Perfect temperature, perfect pace.

We took it very easy, as I am still recovering from my surgery.

At kilometer 2 we were handed over bottles of water and we kept going. 

We went along a wide avenue with Kigali in the background: an avenue which later we would run in the opposite direction. We saw the faster runners a few meters below, already in kilometer 5. 

Mid race 

There were also a few kids running at a remarkable pace! 

We spent a few kilometers running along one who was quite young and who didn’t seem to get tired at all!

At kilometer 5 I experienced one of this “I love being here” moments. Some speakers were playing (very loud) the song “The summer is magic” by Playahitty, the sun was shining, a lot of locals were watching and I was running with a local kid. It was… well, magic 🙂

After completing the second leg of the avenue, we did a turn right and… uphill we went!

Slowly we were getting closer to the stadium. It was uphill but not too bad.. or, maybe, we were trained enough.

We were running at a very comfortable pace, just in case. 

Last kilometers – Where is the finish?

During the last kilometers, we circled the stadium. Also we overtook runners who struggled with the hills.

And then we reached kilometer 10 so we were ready to enter the Stadium! There was a sign “Run for Peace turn left” but… a marshall told us to go ahead, to keep running.

So we kept running, along with all the runners who were around us. But then, a couple hundred meters ahead, they told us… to get back!

What a mess.

I even shouted a very vocal “Wtf?!” 😡

So we turned around, told the runners who were coming not to make our mistake.

Finally we headed to the “Finish line” sign, and we did cross it, holding hands!

The funny thing was.. it was the “Half Marathon” Finish!

Apparently the “Run for peace” finish was on the side of the stadium, but it was not marked and most of us runners got lost 😣

Post Race

After the race we were given as many water bottles as we wanted, and also some “glucose biscuits”. Also in Uganda, biscuits were advertised as “glucose biscuits”, which is something I had not seen before.

And we went to collect our medals, as the speaker was suggesting: “Run for peace runners, please go and get your well earned medals!”

The medals were handed over with their protection, which we kept, to store them in our luggage 👍

We then spent an hour trying to find our driver, but we were not too tired, so it was ok. 

And, also, we got the chance to see very curious images, like three young guys dressing like Coolio in “Gansta’s Paradise”… but carrying dead chickens, holding them by the legs! 😲

The traffic in a few neighbouring streets was open just when our driver found us, so we could finally reach our hotel not too late!

Live on Rwandan TV – The awards ceremony!

Already in our room, we had breakfast and we turned on the TV and we saw the awards ceremony, live on Rwandan TV!

The pundit was very enthusiastically explaining that the winners “were taking home a whooping 5,000 USD!”

Apparently, most of the winners were from Kenya, and they played the full hymn for the winners of both the marathon and half marathon, both female and male, so I listened to Kenya’s hymn while munching on my croissant… 4 times 😂

🍜 Carboloading 🍝: What to eat in Rwanda if you are a runner

We enjoyed Rwandan food a lot, mainly because of its fresh ingredients.

Also, we were fortunate enough to have a good chef in our lodge, who cooked really well but did not create dishes who were massive (like in Uganda!). 

But we also ate avocado salads, tomato and pumpkin and gingerbread soups, beef stew, roasted chicken… and you could taste the freshness of the ingredients. 

And here, like in Uganda, “Spanish omelette” is different from what we understand in Spain. No potatoes! (Even if there were many potato fields surrounding our lodge!)

African Tea!

Plus, I pursued my recently acquired taste for “African tea” (which I had developed in Uganda) and could enjoy a few cups of the delicious spiced black tea with milk.

Here’s a picture of me writing like a “pro” with my cup of African tea and even a blanket! While outside it was wet and rainy… 🥶

What to Eat in Rwanda Before a Long Run

Before a long run like a marathon in Rwanda, it’s important to focus on carbohydrate-rich foods that provide sustained energy. Rwandan cuisine offers many excellent options that are natural, wholesome, and easy to digest, ensuring you fuel your body without feeling weighed down.

A great pre-run meal could include ugali, a staple dish made from maize or cassava flour. Ugali is an excellent source of complex carbohydrates, offering slow-releasing energy to power you through long distances. Pair it with a mild vegetable stew or boiled greens like isombe (cassava leaves) for added vitamins and minerals. Another great choice is sweet potatoes, which are commonly grown in Rwanda. Sweet potatoes are rich in complex carbohydrates, potassium, and vitamin C, making them a perfect option for both energy and hydration.

For something lighter and quicker to digest, consider plantains or bananas, both of which are abundant in Rwanda. They’re rich in simple carbohydrates that provide a quick energy boost. Eating these with a small handful of groundnuts (peanuts) adds healthy fats and protein for a more balanced meal. Don’t forget to hydrate with plenty of water or natural options like coconut water, which helps replenish electrolytes before the race.

What to Eat in Rwanda After a Long Run

After a marathon, your body needs a mix of protein and carbohydrates to aid recovery, rebuild muscles, and replenish glycogen stores. In Rwanda, traditional dishes make it easy to create a nutrient-packed recovery meal.

Start with ibihaza, a dish made from boiled or roasted pumpkin. Pumpkin is a good source of carbohydrates for restoring energy, and it’s easy on the stomach after intense exercise. Pair it with beans or a bean stew, which are staples in Rwandan cuisine and an excellent source of plant-based protein to help repair muscle tissue. Adding a small serving of avocado, another Rwandan favorite, provides healthy fats and potassium, aiding in hydration and reducing inflammation.

For those who prefer animal protein, brochettes (grilled meat skewers) made from goat, chicken, or fish are a great option. Pair them with irish potatoes or rice, which are high in carbs and widely available in Rwanda. As a snack, consider milk and bananas, a classic Rwandan combination. Milk provides protein and calcium for recovery, while bananas replenish lost potassium and provide quick energy.

Finally, ensure you rehydrate thoroughly after the race. Fresh passion fruit juice or sugarcane juice can be great options, as they provide natural sugars, vitamins, and hydration. Combining these traditional Rwandan staples ensures your body is replenished, restored, and ready for your next run!

🏆 20. Kigali International Peace Marathon – Marathon (42k), Half Marathon (21k) and the “Run for peace”, 10k.

🌐 Website: https://kigalimarathon.org/

🏃 Number of runners: Around 2000 split in all categories. Fast growing!

🗓️ Beginning of June in Kigali, Ruanda, Africa.

👟 Urban: bring shoes for asphalt.

✅ Quite well organised compared to other races in Africa, although a few mistakes made us laugh (and shed tears of despair!)

✅ Hilly but manageable, so ideal for training and pushing yourself to the limit!

⚠️ The hills, again. It is not a race to do a PB.

⚠️ Do not run the marathon unless you are fast, or you will have thousands of runners of the “run for peace” running towards you in the opposite direction!!!

“Our lady of the Nile”, by Scholastique Mukasonga

Reading Our Lady of the Nile by Scholastique Mukasonga is a deeply enriching experience, offering a blend of beautiful prose, historical insight, and universal themes of identity and oppression.

Set in the 1970s, Our Lady of the Nile provides a nuanced and haunting glimpse into the societal dynamics that eventually led to the Rwandan Genocide of 1994. Through the microcosm of an elite Catholic girls’ school, Mukasonga portrays the ethnic tensions between Hutus and Tutsis that simmer just beneath the surface of daily life. It’s an invaluable exploration of how prejudice and propaganda take root in everyday institutions, making history personal and relatable.

At its core, the novel is also a coming-of-age story. The students at the boarding school grapple with identity, friendship, faith, and ambition while navigating a rigid social hierarchy. While the political backdrop is specific to Rwanda, the characters’ struggles to define themselves and find a place in a turbulent world are universal.

At night, in front of a fire (in our lodge we had a fire in our room 🥰)…

Mukasonga’s writing is lyrical yet grounded. Her descriptions of Rwanda’s lush landscape are vivid and evocative, creating a rich sense of place that immerses you in the story. At the same time, her portrayal of the tension and fear in the girls’ lives is precise and chilling, creating a delicate balance between beauty and foreboding.

I kept reading page after page of the book “Our Lady of the Nile”, set in the days just before the genocide, and learnt about Ruanda at the time… and about Ruanda now. Because I read that 

“.. passers by on the road – in Rwanda there are always passers-by on the path, although you never know where they are coming from or going”

or that“for several months, rain becomes the Sovereign of Rwanda, a far greater rules than the former King or the current President”, and the very day after I could see it by myself. I could experience it by myself.