Sonaisoli Island, Fiji. 7th of September 2025.
Running in Sonaisali Island in Fiji was so enjoyable, we ran several times!
We found trails framed with palms, volcanic sand beaches, horse paths, crabs crossing in front of us, others being eaten by Indian Mongooses, and even a wedding chapel where we literally ran down the aisle. It felt adventurous, beautiful, and perfect for recovery just one week after the Sydney Marathon 🌞.
TLDR; “too long, didn’t read”
- I just want to run! Take me to RUN.
- I have 1 minute. Take me to USEFUL INFORMATION.
- Running is my excuse for travelling. Take me to TRIP.
- Running is my excuse for eating. Take me to CARBOLOADING.
- I want to know what to read in the plane. Take me to ONE BOOK.
🏃♂️🌺 Why Fiji Should Be on Every Runner’s Bucket List
Fiji is not just sultry white sand beaches and turquoise lagoons. It is a runner’s dream come true 🌅. From sunrise jogs along palm fringed beachfronts to jungle ridge trails over volcanic hills, every step felt like paradise.
I imagined running beside the ocean, island breeze in my hair, lush green mountains ahead, and a cold coconut waiting at the finish line 🥥. And then I did it.
Smiles for miles. Villagers wave hello, kids cheer, and everyone wants to know how far you are running 😄👋.
Terrain galore. Coastal flats, rainforest hills, volcanic ridges. Every run is a new adventure.
Tropical training zone. Warm and humid, great for endurance building 💪🌞.
Built in recovery. Dip in a lagoon, sip from a coconut, or get a massage after your run 🌴🧘.
📚 A Brief Story of Fiji 📖
Fiji’s islands were settled over 3,500 years ago by the seafaring Lapita people. Today, its people reflect a deep blend of Indigenous iTaukei, Indo-Fijian, and Pacific heritage. Once a British colony, Fiji gained independence in 1970 and has become known for its rugby, resilience, and radical friendliness.
🧐 Fun facts:
- Fiji is the Soft Coral Capital of the World—diving heaven 🐠🐚.
- The national drink, kava, is both calming and ceremonial 🍵.
- Rugby Sevens is life here—Olympic gold in 2016 and 2020 🏆🏉.
Ouch! Cannibalism… ☠️🥩
Fiji’s past holds a fascinating and sometimes chilling chapter 😨. Cannibalism was once woven into the social, political, and spiritual fabric of life. It was not about hunger. It was about power, mana ⚡, and ritual. Chiefs consumed defeated enemies after warfare in elaborate feasts 🍖.
Even the utensils were special. Priests and chiefs used intricately carved forks 🥄, never their hands, during these sacred meals.
I realised Fiji’s cannibal past a week before travelling. In Sydney, just before the marathon 🏃♂️, we watched “The Bounty”.
Anthony Hopkins as Captain Bligh warns, “It will take us close to the most savage islands in these waters, the Fiji Islands, where cannibalism is perfected almost to a science.”
That line stayed with me. It contrasted with the serene tropical landscapes we picture today 🌴🌊. Figures like Ratu Udre Udre, said to have eaten hundreds of people, illustrate how real this was ⚔️.
Cannibalism also lives on in folklore. Ogres and giants who feasted on humans appear in stories passed down for generations. These tales celebrate triumph through wit and unity over brute force.
Today, cooking pits called lovo are used only for delicious feasts of root crops and meats. Still, echoes of legends and rituals add mystery and depth to Fiji’s heritage. This paradise is not just turquoise lagoons and white beaches. It has a history as dramatic as its landscapes 🌺.
🌍 The Trip 📷
After three weeks of island hopping and passing by Nadi Airport several times, a few days after the Sydney marathon we were back in Fiji, this time to visit! 🌴
After running the 42 kilometers, I knew I needed a proper recovery trip. Fiji was the answer.
The Fiji plane from Nuku’alofa to Nadi took 2 hours. Twice as long as on the way in because the plane was smaller. Our lovely Alenia ATR.
They gave us the sandwich instead of the salad with too much onion. We were happy!
We already knew every detail of Fiji Airlines. The music, the food, the uniforms, the checks. When we went to the tiny toilet, I even took a pic of the playlist 🤣🤣
The toilet was so tiny. Roger seriously wondered how big Tongans could even fit in there.
We passed immigration like pros. We knew the transit desk, the domestic transfers, the immigration. Been there, done that, more than once!
Everybody was nice, even the officers. So different from Africa.
The transport company Uniquely Fiji came late to pick us up, but they came. Good enough.
We said goodbye to David and family, such nice people.
First (but familiar) impressions
During our taxi ride we started seeing Fiji. It was familiar but bigger. Sugar cane plantations. Mountains larger than the ones on other South Pacific islands. Fiji appeared more developed.
It was hot and everywhere was green, tropical, lush. Same nature as in other islands 🌺
We also spotted a Seven Day Adventist Church. We had seen them everywhere in the South Pacific.
Our taxi driver, an Indian, pointed to a drain. “Very deep. You go there, finished! Last time a car was there.”
He repeated, “Fiji traffic not good. Fiji traffic not good!! Only one road!” We had to take this into account, after what happened in Honiara!
We passed a Hindu temple, the colourful Sri Shiva Subtamaniya Swami. We saw ads for authentic Fijian food, pickups, and one floor colourful houses with porches, clothes hanging to dry, abandoned items in the garden, and not looking very robust. The driver complained about the traffic cameras. Then we saw an ad with fat Fijians smiling: “It’s Bula Friday!”
Fiji: Land of Resorts 🏝️
Fiji’s luxury resort industry developed from its natural advantages and its location in the South Pacific. With over 300 islands, turquoise lagoons, coral reefs, and white sand beaches, Fiji attracted travellers seeking exclusivity and tropical beauty.
In the mid 20th century, when international air travel became more accessible, Fiji capitalized on its proximity to Australia, New Zealand, and later North America. It positioned itself as an exotic yet reachable escape.
Early tourism investments were modest, but the government and foreign investors saw the potential in high end hospitality. They created resorts that emphasised seclusion, pristine nature, and personalised service rather than mass tourism.
Over time, Fiji gained a reputation as a luxury destination by combining natural beauty with cultural heritage and Fijian hospitality. Global hotel brands arrived. Boutique operators and private island developers offered overwater villas, private butlers, and cultural activities.
Tourism policies and marketing campaigns branded Fiji as a paradise for honeymoons, wellness retreats, and post marathon escapes. This cemented its status in the global luxury market.
Today Fiji’s resort industry thrives by balancing sustainable development with luxury. It preserves the environment and culture while delivering exclusivity.
Our Resort: Sonaisali Island
We stayed at the Double Tree by Hilton, on Sonaisali Island. The island offered tranquility and convenience, with cultural touches and plenty to unwind or explore.
Sonaisali was a serene Fijian retreat just off the coast of Viti Levu. Palm fringed beaches, turquoise waters, and a laid back island vibe.
It was only a 3 minute boat ride from the mainland of Viti Levu and about 30 minutes by road from Nadi International Airport.
At the pier we were given bottles of water and bead collars. Off we went.
We were greeted with lots of “Bula!”. We were already familiar with “Bula” meaning Hello and “Binaka” meaning Thank you. 🌞
The Gym
We also used the resort gym. In our experience resort gyms are always empty and well equipped.
Ours had treadmills, bikes, an elliptical, weights, and strength machines.
We used it for strength training. I recommend running outside to enjoy the environment but combine it with gym work.
Jetskis and Snorkeling
We booked one of the star resort activities. A jetski excursion to Tavarua Island with snorkeling at its coral reef.
The excursion included snorkeling gear, fins, and a floating vest in case we fell into the water 🙂
After a short safety briefing and learning the hand signs, we headed off. Just two jetskis, our guide Milli’s and ours.
It took almost one hour to get to Tavarua. The tide was coming in so the waves were strong and we bounced up and down. My back suffered a bit.
Going back was much easier. I even got to drive. I found it easier than sitting in the back. Loved it.
Tavarua Island was shaped like a heart, just off Viti Levu. It was surrounded by coral reef systems right off the shore.
The waters were rich and protected, offering incredible snorkeling opportunities just yards from the beach 🐠
Having a holiday in a resort did not mean skipping training. Post marathon recovery worked perfectly with some strength training here.
The Snorkeling
The snorkeling exceeded my expectations.
We slipped into the warm waters off Tavarua and found ourselves surrounded by coral gardens. Branching hard corals rose like forests. Soft corals swayed in purple, pink, and gold.
Giant clams nestled among coral heads, their lips glowing iridescent blue and green. Sunlight pierced the surface, making the reef feel like a living kaleidoscope.
Schools of fish darted around us. Silver and blue damselfish and chromis swarmed in clouds. Pairs of butterflyfish glided gracefully.
We saw parrotfish crunching the reef, surgeonfish grazing, and a clownfish peeking from its anemone.
When we lifted our heads, it felt like we had wandered through another world. 🌊
🏃♀️ The Runs 🏃♂️
First 6.5k run in Sonaisali Island 🏃♂️🌴
The temperature was going to hit 27 degrees and sunny, so we ran soon after sunrise.
We wanted to explore Sonaisali Island, where our hotel was located, and we did.
Sonaisali Island is a small private island just off the western coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s largest island. It sits about 300 meters offshore, separated from the mainland by a narrow channel.
We were pleasantly surprised because we could do a 6k circuit. It was mainly flat but also included more adventurous parts. The loop gave us views of the island’s nature and landscape.
We started inside the resort and found a 1.5k loop on concrete, pressed earth, and grass. It was perfect, even for speed training. I was already thinking of intervals or a tempo run.
The views were spectacular. Not only the blue waters of the ocean, but also the narrow channel and the shores of Viti Levu.
The waters around the island looked calm and sheltered, protected by reefs further offshore 🌊
Running down the aisle!
When running on the grass, we stumbled upon the outdoor chapel set up for weddings. I read that the resort is a popular wedding venue. Now we can say, “we ran down the aisle”!
We continued around the resort, running past a swimming pool, bungalows, a tennis court, and a badminton court. At that time of the morning, there was nobody around. Just a few early risers on their terraces, enjoying the sunrise or putting on suncream 🙂
The resort offered horse riding, so we guessed the grounds were large enough for a longer run. We were not wrong.
We followed the paths marked by horse hooves. The trail was tricky at times but beautiful. Palms, tropical vegetation, and landscaped greenery framed the route.
We did have to watch out for horse dung though 😂 It was scattered all along the trail.
Then we caught sight of the beaches. Of course we turned and reached the coast.
The dark sand beaches
Instead of white sandy beaches, Sonaisali’s natural shoreline had dark volcanic sand, typical of western Viti Levu.
Running on it was not easy but manageable. The sand was compact enough. We found many tree trunks lying around and jumped over them. It felt adventurous and we took some pictures on top of them.
When we got back to the hotel, our legs and shoes were dirty with dark sand, which was pretty cool 🙂
On the beach we paused, admiring the landscape. The nearby fringing reef created calm lagoon-like waters. Perfect for kayaking, paddling, or jet skiing.
The marine life included tropical fish, crabs, and seabirds. At one point, a big crab crossed right in front of us while we were running on the sand 🦀
We finished by retracing our steps and speeding inside the resort grounds. It gave us a real sense of accomplishment, exactly one week after the Sydney Marathon.
Second, longer run in Fiji 🌅
We enjoyed the first run so much that we decided to repeat it and make it longer.
This time we ran 10k on soft, flat terrain. It was perfect for running.
We followed the same loop as yesterday but added three laps on the section from the resort to the sauvage part of the island. That area was more difficult to run but more rewarding.
We also ran again on the dark volcanic sand of the beach. The tide was receding, so we jumped happily over tree trunks once more.
The sunrise was colourful and calm. The temperature was not too high. Conditions were ideal for running.
It felt amazing to stretch the legs in Fiji, just days after conquering the Sydney Marathon.
Do the same, following the same specs, merging the information below into a section about what to eat.
Distinguish carbo and protein, and merge seamlessly the information about the breakfast and dinner in a way that it makes sense as a whole.
Running during low tide: 6 kms with crabs and an Indian mongoose! 🏃♂️
We had run twice in the dark coast, but both times during high tide. When we were going for a walk, we realised that it was low tide. The beach appeared completely different, wide and stretching to the horizon.
So we could not resist, went back to our room and got changed. We ended up running 6 kilometers more, and they were possibly the best during our stay. Seriously, Sonaisali island is a paradise for running. We definitely made the right choice coming here to recover after our marathon. We ended up running a total 22 kilometers over two days, so a little bit longer than a recovery… but that’s ok 😂
Midnight clouds, a warm “Bula” and running fast 🌴
It was 12am but luckily it was not sunny. In fact it was quite cloudy and an hour before some rain was falling. We started turning on the Fiji flag pole and saying hello to Millie, our guide in yesterday’s jetskies excursion. She shouted “Bula!” and gave us a thumbs up because she apparently liked us running. She must be the fittest Fijian we had encountered during our trips. Lean and energetic. Very different from many families in the resort, with everybody being obese, even the little babies….
But let’s go back to the run. We ran fast, faster than 6 minutes the kilometer, which is slightly faster than our recent trainings after my back surgery. It was due to the wind, but we did not realise until we went back 😂, when we actually were slower.
A dreamlike beachscape full of crabs 🦀
The landscape stretching in front of us was incredible. The extension of wet sand with some random tree trunks made the ocean look like a desert, and the distant islands like mountains in the distance, almost a dream. It did not seem like we were running on the same coast that yesterday we cruised with a jetski.
The dark sand was punctuated with white shells and their perfect circle holes, made by the crabs. And many crabs were walking in front of us, so many that in some cases we had to watch out not to step on them!
We reached the mainland of Vitu Levi island, the biggest of Fiji, and we continued. Until we arrived at a little river. The river and the extension of sand and mud was a great landscape. We took some pictures, with parches of vegetation that looked surreal, appearing in front of the sand.
Surprises on the way back and a dream come true 🐾🌅
Then we turned back. And our way back was eventful. First we found a little teddy bear, almost buried in the sand, that caught our attention. And later we saw an Indian mongoose catching and killing a crab right in front of us. We did not capture the moment with our camera but it left an impression on us!
When we finished, back in the resort, I was thinking how much I love running around the world. It gave me the possibility to discover amazing places, places where I would dream to visit when I was a kid.
Like this unexpected low tide beach in Fiji: nobody but us and nature, no tourists, no merchandise, just the place. It helped me appreciate the moment. It really was a dream come true!
🍜 What to Eat Before and After Running in Fiji 🏃♀️🥥🐟
Let’s be honest. One of the best parts of running while traveling is earning your food 😋. In Fiji, that reward felt next level.
The cuisine was a vibrant mix of Indigenous, Indian, and island flavors. Tropical fruits, fresh fish, earthy root vegetables, and rich coconut in everything. Perfect fuel for sunrise runs and recovery after long days.
🥞💨 Carboloading Before the Run
Breakfast at the resort was a runner’s dream. We ate so much, honestly enough food for the whole day. It was more of a feast than a simple recovery meal.
There were omelettes, sausages, bacon, beans, mushrooms, and hash browns. Pastries, toasts, and pancakes stacked high. Cereals of every type. Coconut water and all kinds of juices. We were spoiled for choice.
It matched perfectly with local-style carb loading. Fijian roti with coconut jam for sweetness. Tropical fruit bowls with papaya, banana, and mango for quick energy 🍌🥭. Even oatmeal with coconut milk and honey for long-lasting fuel.
The funny part? Birds also joined in, stealing scraps from empty tables despite bottles of “Repellent for birds” placed around 🐦.
🐟💪 Protein Recovery After the Run
Dinner was just as special. We went straight into resort life with the Seafood Buffet.
It was exactly as we expected. Piles of mussels, oysters, octopus with chili, fish curry, prawns, and crabs. There was even a Spanish sea rice, an attempt at paella 😂 that made us laugh.
Fish grilled over open flames, served as the sun set on a sandy beach. Lamps hung from mangrove trees and fires flickered along the coast.
The scene was complete with live music, extravagant cocktails, and smiling staff with flowers in their hair 🍹.
The crowd made it entertaining too. Bored couples, families with kids, and girls in trikinis trying hard for attention. Then the singer launched into “Another Day in Paradise” by Phil Collins, a song about homelessness. The irony was not lost on us.
Later, young Fijians, very fit compared to the local average, danced to “Danza Kuduro“. I recognised the beat and laughed again.
Local protein recovery had the same spirit. Grilled ika with cassava, light but filling 🐠. A lovo feast with pit-roasted meats, taro, and island greens 🔥🍠. Even tofu coconut curry for a plant-based option 🌶️🥥.
Oh, but we enjoyed it all. Eating, drinking, and living the paradise holiday experience while recovering from the Sydney Marathon.
Useful information
🏃 Running in Sonaisali Island, Fiji
👟 Trail: bring shoes for trail..
✅ Epic scenery – Low tide revealed a dreamlike beach, crabs, shells and endless horizons.
✅ Perfect recovery – Flat, peaceful runs after the Sydney Marathon felt like paradise.
⚠️ Conditions – Normally hot, humid and unpredictable. Best to run at sunrise or sunset.
Map
One book
📘 “A Disappearance in Fiji” by Nilima Rao
Set in colonial Fiji in 1914, this novel follows Akal Singh, an Indian police inspector sent to a sugarcane town after a scandal. He investigates the disappearence of a servant and uncovers systemic injustice, social tensions, and personal dilemmas—all wrapped in a compelling island mystery 🕵️♂️🌴.
It paints Fiji beyond the beaches: a layered land of migration, colonial history, and moral complexity. You’ll see more in every village, field, and local face—especially when your morning run takes you past the same sugarcane roads Akal once walked.
Plot: When a female Indian servant vanishes from a remote sugarcane plantation, Akal is assigned what seems like a minor case—but quickly discovers a web of secrets, injustice, and racial tensions simmering beneath the surface. As he navigates hostile colonial authorities, silenced workers, and his own outsider status, the case forces him to confront questions of duty, identity, and justice in a land that’s far from paradise for many. It’s part mystery, part historical fiction, and completely absorbing. 🔍🌴📖
To know more…
Here’s a curated list of books and films to dive into before your trip.
They’ll give you deeper insight into Fiji’s culture, history, and humor—perfect pre-run or hammock reading. 🏝️📖
- 📕 Kava in the Blood by Peter Thomson
A powerful blend of memoir and history that explores Fijian identity, kava culture, and post-colonial politics. 🍵 - 📕 Fiji: A Novel by Lance & James Morcan
A sweeping historical adventure filled with tribal conflict, romance, and cultural clashes in 19th-century Fiji. ⚔️❤️ - 📕 On Fiji Islands by Ronald Wright
An elegant travelogue that weaves history, anthropology, and personal reflection into a rich portrait of Fiji. 🗺️ - 📕 A Shipwreck in Fiji by Nilima Rao
Sequel to A Disappearance in Fiji, this novel continues Akal Singh’s journey with another gripping island mystery. 🌊🕵️ - 🎬 Fiji Rugby Sevens Highlights (YouTube)
Watch the magic and madness of Fiji’s world-famous sevens team—pure adrenaline and national pride. 🏉🔥 - 🎬 Fijian Village Life (YouTube)
Short, authentic video documentaries of daily life, customs, and ceremonies in rural Fiji—simple, human, and beautiful. 👣🎥 - 🎬 Lovo Cooking & Island Food Vlogs (YouTube)
Deliciously visual guides to Fijian cooking—perfect for understanding what goes into that post-run lovo feast. 🍠🍖
