Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia. 15th of September 2025.
Over two unforgettable runs, we explored Pohnpei in a way most travelers never do.
Our first run took us through the bustling but peaceful streets of Kolonia and along the stunning Dekehik Causeway, discovering hidden shipwrecks and colonial history. The second was a more daring adventure, weaving through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nan Madol, where ancient basalt walls and mangrove forests made every step both challenging and magical.
These runs weren’t just workouts. They were journeys through time, culture, and nature.
Pohnpei is a runner’s paradise hidden in the heart of Micronesia. Between early morning sunrises, quiet streets, and lush coastal paths, every run feels like an adventure. From the flat scenic stretches of Kolonia and the Dekehik Causeway to the wild, ancient ruins of Nan Madol, the island offers both serenity and adrenaline.
Running here means connecting with nature, history, and local life all at once, whether dodging chickens on quiet streets or pausing to marvel at mangroves and tidal waters.
TLDR; “demasiado largo, no lo leí”
- ¡Solo quiero correr! Llévame a RUNS.
- Tengo 1 minuto. Llévame a INFORMACIÓN ÚTIL.
- Correr es mi excusa para viajar. Llévame a VIAJE.
- Correr es mi excusa para comer. Llévame a CARBOLOADING.
- Quiero saber qué leer en el avión. Llévame a UN LIBRO.
📌 Why Micronesia Should Be on Every Runner’s Bucket List
Micronesia is not your typical running destination, and that’s exactly why it belongs on every runner’s bucket list🏅.
Imagine running through dense jungle paths, alongside shimmering lagoons, or past ancient stone ruins that challenge your balance and strength. The combination of unique terrain, tropical weather, and varied surfaces builds stamina and boosts endurance in a way city routes never could.
But it’s more than just the physical challenge.
Running here connects you to the island’s history and culture, with locals cheering you on or sharing a smile as you pass.
And after your run? You’ll be rewarded with fresh tropical fruits and the chance to swim in pristine waters, perfect for recovery 🌊🌴.
🌍El viaje 📷
Pophnei in a Nutshell
Pohnpei is an absolute must-visit, offering some of the most spectacular sights in the region.
🏝️ Before or after your run, explore the ancient stone city of Nan Madol, often called the “Venice of the Pacific.” This mysterious archaeological site features a labyrinth of basalt stone ruins built over a lagoon, giving you the perfect blend of history and jaw-dropping scenery to fuel your wanderlust. 🏰🌊
Beyond Nan Madol, Pohnpei boasts lush waterfalls like Sokehs Rock and Kepirohi Falls, perfect for cooling off after a sweaty run or enjoying a peaceful hike. The island’s tropical rainforests are dotted with local villages where you can meet friendly locals and experience authentic Micronesian culture.
Plus, the pristine beaches and vibrant coral reefs offer a refreshing swim or snorkeling adventure to reward your efforts. 🐠🌴 Pohnpei’s mix of natural beauty and cultural treasures makes every moment after your run feel like a mini-vacation.
Highlights of a Wonderful Island: Unexpected Discoveries
We spent almost seven hours touring Pohnpei by car and were amazed by the scenery. Coastal roads offered sweeping ocean views and lush islands, reminiscent of Sao Tome, only greener.
Waterfalls, UNESCO heritage ruins, old churches, a Japanese Tank cemetery, and Spanish-era walls filled the itinerary.
We left Kolonia early, still buzzing from our morning run. Driving west along the Coastal Road, we passed a vintage-style petrol station and even a painted police car. Roads like Gir Island Road gave us a glimpse of authentic local life.
Kids leaned out of car windows, old ladies wore bright green patterned skirts, and dogs lounged lazily in the streets.
Stone churches and school buses flashed by, while locals waved hello. Some new churches looked like white metal containers, while traditional shops sold copra meals.
Nan Madol
Ten miles from Kolonia, we arrived at Nan Madol and paid 25 dollars to friendly ladies, who informed us there were no brochures.
We parked in the shade of massive trees, greeted by birds, animals, a wandering dog, and a black pig. Walking through an untidy property, we reached the first walls of Nan Madol.
The sheer size of the stones was breathtaking. Trees grew through the middle of structures, merging vegetation and man-made art. Mangrove pneumatophores looked like fields of spikes, creating a surreal atmosphere.
Plants grew inside coconuts, adding to the island’s wild charm. After exploring, we returned to the car to get changed for a run.
Kepirohi Waterfall
We stopped at a little shop for cold drinks, enjoying cokes and sweet green tea in the shade. The shopkeeper shared local tips and BTS fandom, connecting across cultures while Roger photographed the dogs. Following her instructions, we reached another shop and paid 10 dollars for access to the beautiful Kepirohi Waterfall.
The waterfall was spectacular and empty, with volcanic stones and multiple water streams. Roger positioned himself under the falls while I admired the lush jungle. Swimming at our own risk felt exhilarating. This waterfall could rival Hawaii in beauty and isolation, offering a perfect mix of exercise, adventure, and relaxation.
Return Trip and Local Life
Driving back along the coastal road, the island continued to surprise us. Two men shouted from a truck at women carrying basins.
An old man walked side by side with his dog in the middle of the road, a perfect snapshot of local life. Neighbors gathered for small reunions, and some women wore mwaramwar, floral crowns woven from tropical blooms. These garlands are symbols of culture, worn casually or during ceremonies, weddings, and dances 🌺.
Japanese WWII Tank Graveyard
Back in Kolonia, we detoured to a Google Map gem: the Japanese WWII Tank Graveyard. Hidden behind a supermarket scrapyard, we discovered Type-95 Ha-Go tanks and smaller tankettes in surprisingly good condition. At the end of the war, these tanks were concentrated for disarmament and then abandoned, gradually reclaimed by jungle.
While taking photos, a young woman stopped asking about a gym. We laughed and explained we were there for the tanks, and she joined in the awe. Seeing WWII relics like this, in such an unexpected location, made Pohnpei feel alive with history.
Spanish Wall
Next, we visited the Spanish Wall. The softball field was empty, perfect for filming. Friendly locals, including two polite drunkards, approached to chat.
Next we visited Ponape Cathedral, which is a striking example of early 20th-century religious architecture in the Pacific.
Built during the German colonial period, the cathedral reflects European influences blended with local construction materials and techniques, showcasing the cultural fusion characteristic of the region.
Both the wall and church, silent witnesses to centuries of history, felt deeply connected to the island’s past.
🏃♀️ The Runs🏃♂️
Over two unforgettable runs, we explored Pohnpei in a way most travelers never do. Our first run took us through the bustling but peaceful streets of Kolonia and along the stunning Dekehik Causeway, discovering hidden shipwrecks and colonial history. The second was a more daring adventure, weaving through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nan Madol, where ancient basalt walls and mangrove forests made every step both challenging and magical.
These runs weren’t just workouts. They were journeys through time, culture, and nature.
Pohnpei is a runner’s paradise hidden in the heart of Micronesia. Between early morning sunrises, quiet streets, and lush coastal paths, every run feels like an adventure. From the flat scenic stretches of Kolonia and the Dekehik Causeway to the wild, ancient ruins of Nan Madol, the island offers both serenity and adrenaline. Running here means connecting with nature, history, and local life all at once, whether dodging chickens on quiet streets or pausing to marvel at mangroves and tidal waters.
Our morning run in the Dekehik Causeway and Kolonia
We decided to run 5k to 7k on the route we scouted yesterday, and later we fine tuned it with Google Maps. It proved the right decision because it was a flat but scenic run without dogs or too much traffic, and with great views! We set off very early because otherwise it would be too hot.
It was 6:15am. The temperature was ok and there was already enough light. During the night it rained, but we were lucky and it didn’t while we ran. We only had to deal with the muddy trails it left 🤣
Here it rains so often, as we experienced several times during our stay, that the usual abandoned cars in front of the houses are eaten up by vegetation. They look like postmodern little Angkor Wats 🤣
Scenic Views and Local Life
From the China Star Hotel in the harbour, we passed by the International Airport where we arrived yesterday. It was completely empty. Not even a single car, or security guards. We turned right to the Dekehik Causeway.
The Causeway is perfect for running. In fact this was proven by the fact we encountered many other runners. All Chinese, funnily enough. Seems that the local Chinese community has a penchant for running. How nice!
We also saw a group of very fit looking young guys looking like army men finishing their bootcamp type training. So we woke up at 5:30am but we were even too late, or so it seemed!
We ran over a concrete path guarded by trees and flowers with water at each side. The sun was reflecting in the quiet waters, and some mist shrouded the mountain tops. It was extremely beautiful. And so quiet! 🌅
No traffic, no dogs, only chickens and some roosters. Something I really liked were the signs. Here they are similar to those in the Marshall Islands. They are decorated with vintage looking slogans, letters with old fonts and retro colours. They give the place an allure of older times. We saw a “get your flu shot” and a couple of “Welcome to Pohnpei.”
There was one which added “capital of the Federate States of Micronesia.” I didn’t understand it as the official capital city is Palikir. But anyway!
Historic Streets and Swimming Spots
As we entered Kolonia, we saw a few old stone buildings, some two or three stories high, with dirty walls and balloons. In some there were bags full of bananas, ready to go. Right there was also the Australian Embassy, with its official flag and the Aborigen one which made us remember our recent stay in Sydney.
At that time there were only a few people on the streets, some scrubbing in front of the One World Plaza with its Japanese flag and some women dressed in flowery skirts carrying buckets and basins amongst some chickens 🐓
We arrived at an old Church, which seemed Spanish, and we stopped. It was here in Kolonia, I remembered, that in 1887 the Spaniards founded the town of Santiago de la Ascensión.
I couldn’t find information about the Church online but nevertheless we enjoyed looking at it and imagining the story that it carries. The green grass surrounding old tombs and the blackened stone and nobody else but us.
We turned around until we reached a point where yesterday we saw locals swimming. It is called Lidakika swimming spot but we, instead of swimming right there, ran along a pier of sorts, full of vegetation.
First it was easy to run but later it became tricky, with mud and vegetation. We were not deterred and reached the end, with even more amazing views of Sokeh’s rock. Roger jumped into the water!
Back to the Dekehnik Causeway!
After his morning bath, we ran back to the Dekehnik Causeway. Still no traffic, no dogs and a few runners. Perfect. We were aiming at the airport and along the way we found a massive shipwreck.
We love seeing these shipwrecks, like the ones in Kiribati, because they are real. They are a testimony of the hardships of seamen and they look stunning in videos 🙂 It’s quite impressive to see their size as well!
We continued until we reached the airport, entered until we reached the hall’s arrival, still nobody there, and then turned left to reach our hotel. All in all, 6.7 kms with perfect conditions! We were happy 🏃
An adventure in the most amazing place: the Venice of the Pacific!
Nan Madol
When we visited Nan Madol, we checked if it was feasible to actually run here. We thought it was going to be unique and interesting, and we were not wrong. After our inspection, we realised that it was not going to be easy but not impossible. After an easy run in the morning, we decided to be adventurous and run in a UNESCO Heritage Site. It definitely was adventurous but at the same time so rewarding.
We did survive it without falling or getting hurt. We did get wet, though. In fact we ran in the water! That was great for leg strength training and to refresh ourselves in the hot climate, but it is not something I would recommend if you are wearing fancy shoes 🙂 Despite being a difficult run, it is terribly special to be able to run a 2.5k loop amongst the jungle and ancient ruins without any other tourists.
Jungle Trails and Mangroves
Nan Madol reminded me of Angkor Wat when we visited in 2005. Now Angkor Wat is very different as the world discovered it and it became popular. It is full of tourists but back then it had the same sense of remoteness and wildness. Nan Madol is really off the beaten path.
While we were running we were seriously amazed at the massive structures, the big rocks and the robust walls, some with massive trees growing inside the structures themselves 🌿 But let’s describe the run with more detail. To reach the Nan Madol historical site, you start passing by a private property. You enter the garden of an old and poor house where a very old man half naked, trembling and looking somehow disoriented, keeps saying “You have to pay” while some dogs bark at you. We paid him 5 dollars before starting running but he quickly forgot and kept asking us every time he saw us.
Then you take a trail which is quite rocky, so you have to run with a lot of caution. Every now and then there are precarious wooden bridges and of course everywhere the lush forest vegetation mixed with ruins made of massive dark volcanic stones. It is like an adventure.
The historical site is surrounded by shallow tidal waters, mudflats, and mangroves. We were crossing those bridges on top of mangroves’ pneumatophores, which were basically extensions of spikes on a bed of mud.
Exploring Ancient Ruins
I didn’t know what they were back then but looked it up. Apparently many mangrove species, like Sonneratia or Avicennia, have special root systems that stick up above the mud like spikes. These are called pneumatophores and help the trees breathe in oxygen poor mud by acting like snorkels 🌊 And then you reach the coast. You hear the roaring of waves and then suddenly a massive tall ancient wall. To actually get into the ruins we needed to traverse a shallow stream. It was low tide so we ventured into it. We ran against the stream and reached the structures on foot. During high tide, you need to use a boat to see the sites.
Then we ran across them, being careful not to fall, not only because the terrain was uneven, but because we were distracted by the amazing views. We ventured even further, into where the waves were hitting the walls, with islands in the background. It was slippery but we climbed into an outer structure and paused for a second. It was one of those moments where you think how special being here was.
We came back to finish a 2.5k loop which turned out to be one of the most unique and special runs we had done. We had not seen anyone, just us and the ruins of the Venice of the Pacific 🏝
🍽️ What to Eat Before and After Running in Micronesia
Fueling your runs in Micronesia means diving into a delicious mix of island flavors! Whether you’re prepping for a morning sprint or recovering after a long run, local cuisine has you covered with fresh, tasty options to keep you energized and satisfied. 🥥🌞
🥥 Carboloading (Before the Run)
- Taro root mash – A starchy, filling traditional dish that provides slow-release energy.
- Banana and breadfruit pancakes – Sweet, hearty, and perfect for powering your run. 🍌🥞
- Fresh tropical fruit bowl – Pineapple, mango, and papaya for a hydrating, quick boost. 🍍🥭
🐟 Protein Recovery (After the Run)
- Grilled reef fish with coconut sauce – Light, protein-packed, and utterly delicious.
- Chicken kelaguen – A tangy, flavorful Chamorro dish marinated with lemon and chili. 🍗🌶️
- Fish stew with taro and coconut milk – A comforting, nutrient-rich way to refuel.
And, where?
Evening Feast in a local Chinese Restaurant
The “China Star Hotel” is not fancy, but definitely it is popular. We ate there twice and we quite enjoyed its Chinese Food. There are no many options in Pohpnei when it comes to food, and in here we could even eat vegetable dishes and salads.
We ate eggplant, Chinese salad, beef with green pepper, and noodles. The food fueled our muscles after running and exploring ancient ruins.
Información útil
🏃 Running in Pohnpei, Estados Federados de Micronesia.
👟 Bring trail running shoes with aggressive treads for mud, rocks, and uneven volcanic stones. Waterproof or water-resistant options are useful for shallow streams and wet mangrove areas.
✅ The routes offered incredible scenery, from coastal causeways and quiet Kolonia streets to the wild, ancient ruins of Nan Madol 🌿.
✅ Running here gave a unique combination of exercise, adventure, and cultural immersion, with almost no tourists and authentic local life.
⚠️ Some trails, especially around Nan Madol and jungle paths, are slippery, muddy, and uneven—careful footing is essential.
Mapa
Un libro
📘 “Island Memories: My Years in Micronesia”, by Dwayne Thomson
Island Memories is a heartfelt memoir that offers an intimate, firsthand account of life in Micronesia through the eyes of someone who has lived, worked, and deeply connected with the islands and their people. Unlike a typical travel guide, this book goes beyond surface-level descriptions and immerses you in the day-to-day experiences, cultural nuances, and challenges faced by locals and expatriates alike. 📖🌺
Reading this book before your trip prepares you to appreciate Micronesia on a deeper level—its traditions, its beauty, and its complexities. You’ll gain insight into the strong community bonds, respect for nature, and the resilience that define island life. This background enriches your travels, making your runs, hikes, and explorations more meaningful as you understand the stories and spirit behind the places you visit. It’s like having a friendly guide whispering the island’s secrets in your ear. 🌴👣
Trama: Have you ever thought about selling your house, car, and furniture and taking your family to live on a remote Pacific Island? Would you miss electricity, indoor plumbing, shopping, vehicles, television, the internet, cell phones, bills, taxes, or relatives?
Come with Dwayne Tomson as he and his wife take their small children to live in the Micronesian Islands for eight fascinating years. Island Memories focuses on their first two years, living in a remote Palauan Island village, teaching English to Palauan children.
Dwayne’s life, and that of his family, are revealed through stories—told with humor, excitement, and wisdom. You will gain insights into what it was like to be the only non-Palauans living in an undeveloped island village. You will learn about the acceptance and kindness the islanders extended to these outsiders, and the many things the Tomsons and their children learned. Dwayne’s descriptions of places, events, and people will allow you to share a unique adventure.
