Corriendo entre reliquias de la Segunda Guerra Mundial y sobre el océano. ¡Solo en Kiribati!

Betio, Kiribati. 10th of September, 2025.

In September 2025 we ran in a place where Japanese Word War II guns and bunkers were hidden amongst the signs of a very chaotic daily life.. with piles of rubbish, naked kids, dogs, chickens and pigs, and even had time to run on a highway built literally over the ocean: a road with turquoise water and shipwrecks in either side.

This was Kiribati! 

A very peculiar island nation scattered across the equator in the central Pacific Ocean. One of the most remote and unique countries on Earth, which offered us an unforgettable experience. 

TLDR; “demasiado largo, no lo leí”

• ¡Solo quiero correr! Llévame a CORRER.
• Tengo 1 minuto. Llévame a INFORMACIÓN ÚTIL.
• Correr es mi excusa para viajar. Llévame a VIAJE.
• Correr es mi excusa para comer. Llévame a CARBOLOADING.
• Quiero saber qué leer en el avión. Llévame a UN LIBRO.

Whether you’re exploring new cultures, looking for traces of World War Two, or simply running for the joy of it, Kiribati is a rare and rewarding destination. 

So grab your hydration pack and get ready to tick off another bucket list run in paradise. 🏃‍♂️🌴

🌴 Why Kiribati Should Be on Every Runner’s Bucket List

Let’s get one thing straight: Kiribati isn’t your typical running destination.

There are no mega-marathons, no glossy sports facilities, and no Instagrammable trail signs. What you do get is something much more authentic: real solitude, ocean breezes, curious kids cheering you on from palm-thatched porches, and the sense that you’re truly running at the edge of the Earth.

And the opportunity to run either past real WWII relics and in the South Tarawa causeway, which links several islets, are both unique experiences!

🌍El viaje 📷

📚 A Brief Story of Kiribati 🇰🇮📖

Kiribati’s story is as fascinating as its geography. Once part of the British colony known as the Gilbert and Ellice Islands, Kiribati gained independence in 1979. It’s one of the few countries that straddles all four hemispheres thanks to its position on both sides of the International Date Line. Yes, you literally run into tomorrow here! 🕰️🌍

The people of Kiribati, known as I-Kiribati, have strong cultural roots, with traditional dance, storytelling, and canoe-building playing a big role in daily life. English is spoken, but most locals use Gilbertese (Te taetae ni Kiribati). And while the nation faces real threats from rising sea levels 🌊 due to climate change, its resilience and vibrant community make it one of the most inspiring places you’ll ever visit.

Oh, and here’s a curious fact: the name “Kiribati” is just the local spelling of “Gilberts”, named after the British explorer Thomas Gilbert. Because the I-Kiribati alphabet lacks some English consonants, “Gilberts” becomes “Kiribati.” 🇬🇧➡️🇰🇮

⚔️ History on the Run: The Battle of Tarawa

Running in Kiribati isn’t just a scenic experience. It’s a run through history. On the western tip of Betio Island in South Tarawa, you’ll find the haunting remains of one of World War II’s fiercest battles: the Battle of Tarawa, fought between U.S. Marines and Japanese forces in November 1943. It was the first major American offensive in the central Pacific. And it came at a massive cost.

Over the course of just 76 brutal hours, more than 6,000 soldiers lost their lives. The island was heavily fortified by the Japanese. When U.S. forces landed, they faced fierce resistance, shallow reefs that stranded landing craft, and devastating fire from entrenched bunkers. The result was a chaotic, bloody beachhead that forever changed how amphibious warfare was conducted.

Today, remnants of the battle remain scattered across Betio. You can run past rusted tanks half-buried in sand, bunkers still standing among palm trees, and open-air memorials that pay tribute to both sides. 

🏃‍♂️💭 For runners, there’s something deeply moving about jogging across ground that once saw such violence. It’s a chance to honor the past with every step, and to appreciate peace in one of the world’s most remote corners.

To Tarawa! Running and Exploring Betio’s Relics!

Flying into History

Our flight from Nadi to Tarawa was on a Boeing 737 ✈️. I read it in the brochure and thought about the accidents linked to this model. My nerves spiked for a moment 😨. Around us, Kiribati locals laughed loudly, some huge men with passports in hand. The island vibe was already on board.

I was excited. Tarawa was not just another stop. It was the site of the Battle of Tarawa, one of the bloodiest WWII battles in the Pacific. I had read about it, watched documentaries, even seen Ramilla’s video. I knew this trip would be different.

As we descended, I pressed my face to the window. Below stretched a thin strip of white sand lined with coconut trees and dotted with small houses. Turquoise water surrounded everything. The atoll looked fragile and beautiful, a paradise with scars of history waiting to be discovered.

Arrival in Tarawa

Customs was surprisingly formal, with uniformed officers at five desks. We passed through quickly. Outside, the heat hit us hard. The air was heavy and the sun brutal ☀️.

Driving south, the lagoon revealed itself. Patches of blinding white sand stretched into the horizon, surrounded by shallow blue water. Mangroves showed their roots in the low tide. It reminded me of Tuvalu, only bigger. But the rubbish shocked me. Tires, bottles, plastic everywhere. A paradise stained.

People were sleeping in the shade. Dogs wandered across the road. Traffic crawled along the only main road. We passed Parliament, a giant dump in the middle of homes, and Chinese warehouses with huge signs. Then Bairiki appeared with its square, flags, and even an ATM.

In the distance I saw a massive abandoned Ferris wheel 🎡. Rusting, surreal, and beautiful in a sad way. Between Bairiki and Betio stretched a long causeway. On each side, only ocean. I knew instantly that I wanted to run there.

First Walk in Betio

By late afternoon, we set out to explore Betio. The sun eased, clouds gathered, and we carried raincoats. Smart move.

We reached the coast where a giant rusty shipwreck leaned right into the street 🚢. Kids were climbing it and jumping into the water, laughing and shouting Money money at us. The scene was alive and pure. Rain started falling. First soft, then heavy. And it was magic.

Standing there, soaked, watching children leap from a WWII-era wreck into the lagoon, I felt completely present. The Pacific roared, the kids laughed, and I did not care about the rain. It was one of those travel moments that become etched in your memory.

A few meters away, reality hit. A man dumped a bucket of waste right in front of us. The smell was awful. Beside him stood an old WWII gun, rusty and abandoned, with stray dogs circling. That was Betio in a nutshell. Beauty and decay side by side.

Relics of the Battle of Tarawa

The next day we went relic hunting 🪖. I wore long sleeves and sunscreen, and after three hours in the sun I was not burnt.

We wandered off the road into yards where families lived. A toothless man in a hammock smiled as pigs rooted through piles of rubbish. A man blasted Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” from a hut while children chased chickens. It was chaotic and fascinating.

Amid the mess stood Japanese gun emplacements. Rusting, forgotten, surrounded by trash. At one, a man nearly used it as a toilet until he spotted us. History here was not behind glass. It was part of daily life, ignored, reused, or simply in the way.

We found a cementery covered in rubbish, tombs broken except for a few with fresh flowers. A grave of “Antonio” who had died exactly a year ago stood out. The contrast of life, death, and history all jumbled together was surreal.

The Sherman Tank and Red Beach

We continued along Red Beach, the landing site of US Marines in 1943. Among kids shouting Bai bai bai and stray dogs under palms, we found treasures.

First, another Japanese gun.

Then, after wading across low tide, the prize: a Sherman Tank. Rusting but intact. Roger climbed inside while I snapped photos. To touch such history in the Pacific felt surreal.

We also saw Kaotitaeaka Catholic Church, bright blue and simple.

And a Maneaba, the great hall where locals gathered. Life went on around these relics, blending daily routine with memories of war.

Betio Today

Betio was chaotic, dirty, and alive. Shipwrecks, guns, bunkers, and tanks stood among rubbish, markets, and children playing. History here was not polished or curated. It was raw, lived-in, and unforgettable.

Running across the Bairiki highway and exploring WWII relics made Tarawa one of the most unique places I had ever visited.

Crossing to North Tarawa 🚤

We also ventured into North Tarawa. With the help of a local guide, we rented a boat and headed there from the port. The port was interesting because we saw what I thought was a vessel with the Kiribati flag. It turned out to be the RKS Teanoai II (301), a Guardian class patrol boat in service with the Kiribati Maritime Police.

She had been given to the Republic of Kiribati by Australia as part of the Pacific Maritime Security Program. Through this program, Australia donates patrol boats to Pacific Island nations to improve regional maritime security.

Then we passed massive Chinese fishing boats. They had Chinese characters all over. We even saw a couple from Port Vila. It is nice to see we are now familiar with capitals and cities in the South Pacific 🙂 Even Roger knew them by then!

North Tarawa felt like an adventure before even reaching it. We were excited to explore further, to move away from the busy Betio area and see how life was outside the capital. And it all started with this unusual boat ride across the lagoon.

The Lagoon 🌊

The boat was a fisherman’s boat, small and bare. It had only an engine and two fishermen, the pilot and a young guy covered with what seemed like a hiqab 🙂 helping with the logistics like looking for dangerous coral and shallow waters. We sat down on a wooden table which was the only seating.

It was incredibly uncomfortable. The journey took more than an hour. My back suffered so much with the continuous jumping up and down that on the journey back I had to lie down like a fetus on top of the table, with my head over Roger’s legs.

However, the scenery was breathtaking. The water was clear turquoise and at points it seemed like emerald. The blue sky and the white sand of the sand banks framed the lagoon.

Tarawa Lagoon is at the heart of Kiribati’s capital atoll. It is a place where natural beauty and human life meet in a striking contrast. The turquoise waters are framed by slender strips of land dotted with villages, coconut palms, and WWII relics.

Fishing boats and outrigger canoes glide across the calm lagoon as they have for generations. It is the country’s most vibrant hub, home to more than half of Kiribati’s population. It offers a unique glimpse into atoll life. Yet beneath the surface lies a fragile ecosystem, rich in marine life but increasingly challenged by pollution, overfishing, and rising seas.

Taborio and the Immaculate Heart School 🙏

Our first stop was in Taborio, near Noto, where we visited a boarding school called the Immaculate Heart School. It was well kept, very clean, with flowers and several gardens. The students, mostly teenagers, wore saffron polo shirts. They looked at us unimpressed and called us a word which our guide explained means white person in their language.

Our guide used to be a teacher. He explained that he got tired of the job because he not only had to teach but also take care of the kids after hours. He had to serve them meals and even do their laundry. So he quit 🙂 He explained that in Kiribati there is a strong devotion to the Virgin Mary. We saw many statues in the school, all very well kept.

The school was nice, with stray dogs everywhere. There was also a Maneaba, an assembly hall, built over the water. And something unusual: the soccer field seemed to also be in the water. It was an extension of white sand with some water, similar to beaches at low tide. Instead of players there were thousands of crabs 🙂

Buariki and Rural Life 🐖

After Noto we continued north to reach the furthest point of North Tarawa, in Buariki. The village was very different from Betio. It was rural, with traditional huts with straw roofs. Kids smiled around us while pigs, chickens, and dogs moved freely.

We passed a Cava bar where people were watching a FC Barcelona versus Real Madrid game. It was so funny. Our guide found it very curious since we had told him we were from Barcelona. Two stray dogs were sleeping under one of the two billiard tables. Canvas posters of Jesus and the Virgin Mary served as walls.

It was exotic, peculiar, and authentic. We saw another Maneaba, this one with a straw roof, where locals were sleeping inside. We then continued to a house of our guide’s friend. A guy who looked about 17 but already had kids opened coconuts for us. He made a hole in them and gave us the water to drink. I was starting to enjoy coconut water a lot.

His two little daughters, half naked and super cute, played with me. They made me do thumbs up and silly things while laughing and saying bai bai.

Life, Trees, and Stories 🌴

In the shade of their mini Maneaba, our guide explained that Tuvalu used to be part of Kiribati. They became independent because they did not trust Kiribatians to be fair. He then continued to explain interesting things.

He showed us the three trees that make survival possible in a traditional Kiribati household: coconut palm, breadfruit tree, and pandanus tree. The coconut palm, called te ni, provides food, drink, building materials, and weaving. The breadfruit tree, called te mai, is a staple food, roasted, boiled, or used in traditional dishes. The pandanus tree, called te kaina, is equally important. Its fruit is eaten fresh or preserved and its long leaves are woven into mats, thatch, and everyday items.

He also said that in all traditional feasts a pig needs to be sacrificed. Pork will always be eaten. While pointing to piglets sleeping under palm trees, he explained that a family with many pigs is a rich family.

We finally reached the northernmost point of the island. It was a white sand beach with palm trees and some rubbish. The typical scene of Tarawa.

Snorkeling in the Lagoon 🐠

Our last stop was snorkeling in the lagoon. We swam in turquoise waters again, enjoying fish and corals. At some points the corals were so close to the surface that I even hit one.

The funny moment came when I had to get back into the boat. There were no stairs of course, this being a rudimentary fishing boat. Roger pushed me up from the water while one of the fishermen pulled me from inside. I managed to lay on my belly over the boat’s verandah and then pushed myself to fall very undignified with my head on the boat floor. It was pathetic but I succeeded in climbing back. No pictures were taken 🙂 The only memory of this will be Roger laughing his ass off.

The snorkeling marked the end of our North Tarawa adventure. It had been a day full of running across islands, laughing with locals, learning traditions, and swimming in crystal waters. This is what travel in Kiribati is all abou

🏃‍♀️ La carrera 🏃‍♂️

Starting the Run and Facing the Dogs

We started running at 7am and not a minute too late 🌅. The sun was already strong and soon it would punish us. I knew we should have started at 6:30am. Even that half hour makes a big difference in Kiribati. The heat is intense and the humidity makes it feel worse.

Sometimes a sudden shower falls and soaks you in seconds. At least that brings some relief.

What worried me the most were the dogs 🐕. In Tuvalu and especially in Tonga we had very bad experiences. Roger once had to face 8 dogs trying to attack us. Yesterday I saw stray dogs here in Betio. My stomach tightened. We left the lodge and ran towards Bairiki.

The streets were still half asleep. Some locals were sweeping. Others were slowly waking up. Luckily the stray dogs did not attack. They did not even bark. Probably they were still sleeping.

My heart beat fast until we returned to the hotel more than an hour later. Running here was not just a sport. It was also about being alert and careful. That made every kilometer feel even more adventurous.

Relics of War in Betio

As we moved further I began to see more of Betio 🌍. We passed the City Council, a Secondary School and some shops. These shops were huts with dark interiors. They sold cigarettes or deodorant bottles. Nothing fancy.

Then I saw a sign pointing to a relic of the Battle of Tarawa. I felt excited.

Right there in front of me stood a Japanese gun emplacement. It was rusty and abandoned but still powerful in its silence. During the battle in 1943 these guns defended the island fiercely. The Japanese had turned Betio into a fortress with bunkers and coastal guns. The battle was one of the bloodiest of the Pacific War.

Marines landed on November 20th 1943. They faced heavy fire from these very guns. Thousands of Japanese soldiers and Korean laborers defended the island. More than a thousand Marines died in three days.

Many more were wounded. It was shocking to think that where I stood had been a killing ground. Clothes now hung nearby. Children played. People lived in huts. Rubbish surrounded the place. Life had returned. Still the silence of the relic spoke loudly.

I took pictures and thought about the contrast. Running past history felt both surreal and humbling.

Bunkers and the Sad Park

We kept running and found bunkers 💣. They were half buried in the ground. Sand and plants partly covered them. They were also surrounded by rubbish and even some sea containers. These structures had once been full of soldiers. Now they were empty and ignored.

We looked inside. It was dark and smelled of salt and rust. I imagined the fear and the tension of the men who had been there.

Not long after we reached what is called Taiwan Park 🇨🇳. It had been built by the Chinese Government to show friendship. To me it looked sad and empty. A sign of diplomacy maybe but not a lively space.

We kept going and reached the start of the famous highway that connects Betio with Bairiki. This road is sometimes called the Japanese Causeway. It was built by Japanese engineers during the war to link their strongpoints.

After the battle the Americans rebuilt parts of it. Today it is the lifeline of South Tarawa. Cars trucks and buses cross it all day. For me it was the track of my run.

Running the Highway Over the Ocean

We ran onto the highway 🌊. The toll booth was empty. Yesterday we had paid there but now it was silent.

I stepped onto the wall. It was not really a sidewalk but it was wide enough for one runner. It felt steady and flat. Beneath me the tide was high. The water shimmered but rubbish floated in many places.

Still the view was beautiful. Ahead stretched three more kilometers under a sun that was heating up fast.

This causeway has a unique history. Japanese forces built the original road during their occupation of Tarawa. It allowed them to move troops and supplies between islets.

After the battle the Americans expanded and repaired it. Since then it has been modernised. Today it is vital for the people of Tarawa. Without it Betio would be isolated from Bairiki and the rest of South Tarawa.

For me it was more than a road. It was a bridge over the Pacific where history and daily life mix. Running there gave me goosebumps. It was like running on top of stories.

Roger took a bath by going down some stairs 🚤. Big boats floated on the horizon. It looked refreshing. After that we turned back with the wind at our backs.

Back to Betio and Reflections

We ran back with tail wind 🌬️. That felt great. Soon Betio came into view. By now it was 8am. Children in uniforms were walking to school. They looked at us with curiosity. Some waved and said bye bye with big smiles. That was beautiful. At the same time the traffic grew heavier. Cars and trucks passed close. I feared a barking dog might make me jump into the road. Luckily the dogs ignored me.

The heat grew intense 🌡️. We stopped in the shade for water. Finally we reached the lodge. My watch showed more than 8 kilometers. I felt tired but happy, because I had run past Japanese guns and bunkers, crossed a highway that was once built for war and now serves peace, and seen life grow around death.

Running here was not only exercise. It was also a journey through history in the middle of the Pacific Ocean 🌴.

🍜 What to Eat Before and After Running in Kiribati 🏃‍♀️🥥🐟

Let’s face it: running in tropical heat is no joke.

If you’re going to pound the sandy causeways and coral-dust trails of Kiribati, you’ll need fuel. Thankfully, the I-Kiribati diet is built around fresh, local ingredients that are as energizing as they are delicious. Whether you’re carbo-loading before a sunrise jog or recovering after a sweaty afternoon sprint, here’s how to eat like a champion (and a local). 😋🏝️

🍠 Carboloading Before the Run

If you’re planning to run through paradise, you’d better start with the right kind of island carbs. Kiribati may not have quinoa bowls or oat milk lattes, but it offers high-energy foods with serious tropical flair. 🌴💪

• 🥥 Babai (Giant Swamp Taro)
  Dense, earthy, and packed with slow-burning carbs, babai is the island version of a pre-run energy bar—if that bar were steamed in underground ovens and wrapped in banana leaves. It’s like eating a starchy potato that spent its life sunbathing.
• 🍌 Fried Bananas
  Sweet, caramelized, and sometimes dangerously addictive. Think potassium-packed fuel that tastes like dessert but works like a gel packet—only with fewer chemicals and more sunshine.
• 🍚 Rice with Coconut Cream
  Simple but powerful. White rice smothered in creamy, salty-sweet coconut milk will give your legs what they need to keep moving—plus it makes you feel like you’re carbo-loading in a hammock.

🐟 Protein Recovery After the Run

Once you’ve survived the Kiribati heat and humidity (and let’s be honest, just walking here is a sweat session), you’ll need something hearty to rebuild those muscles. Fortunately, the ocean is your personal protein pantry. 🌊💪

• 🐠 Grilled Reef Fish
  Freshly caught and cooked over an open flame. Nothing beats a post-run plate of reef fish seasoned with lime and sea breeze. Bonus: zero additives, 100% runner-approved.
• 🥥 Te bweta (Coconut Toddy Chicken)
  This dish blends marinated chicken with fermented coconut sap for a sweet and savory kick. It tastes like your muscles high-fiving you. (Plus, you can brag that you ate fermented tree nectar.)
• 🥚 Eggs with Pandanus or Breadfruit
  If you’re not quite up for fish, this local version of a post-run scramble does the trick. Packed with island flavors and a side of complex carbs, it’s basically the Kiribati answer to a recovery brunch.

CONSEJO PROFESIONAL: Stay hydrated! 🥥 Coconut water is the natural electrolyte drink here—no plastic bottles, no added sugars, just pure tropical life force in a nut.

🏃 Rodaje Kiribati, Oceanía.

👟 Mostly urban: trae zapatos para asfalto.

✅ The possiblity of running past World War II relics!

✅ The South Tarawa highway really is a great place to run (at sunset or sunrise, though)

⚠️ It is hot and humid, and very difficult to get to. Flights are normally quite expensive…

📘 “The Sex Life of Cannibals”, by Maarten Troost

Though technically a travel memoir rather than a novel, The Sex Lives of Cannibals reads like a narrative adventure set entirely in Kiribati.

Troost and his girlfriend spend two years on Tarawa, adjusting to island life, quirky customs, and the relentless tropical heat. He captures the humor of hunger-induced decision-making (“Coconut Stalinism,” his term for bureaucratic inefficiency) alongside poignant observations about WWII history, environmental fragility, and the resilience of Kiribati’s people.